NEW
GUTTERS/REPLACEMENTS:
When you are installing new gutters and downspouts or replacing
sections or parts of an existing system, you'll find the project
fairly easy to do with regular tools. Rain-carrying systems go together
almost like an Erector set; modern adhesives and slip-joint connections
eliminate hot soldering and all of its problems. There
are five different types of gutters and downspouts (often called
leaders). They are: wooden, copper, galvanized steel, vinyl, and
aluminum. Shapes generally are limited to rounds, half-rounds, and
rectangles.
Galvanized
steel gutters are popular since they are moderately priced. Aluminum
gutters also are popular, although slightly more expensive, as are
vinyl and copper gutters.
Lengths
of most gutters are 10 and 21 foot (standard). Galvanized gutters
may not be pre-painted; aluminum gutters almost always are pre-painted
or pre-primed. This includes downspouts.
Gutter
accessories include hangers, spikes and ferrules, inside and outside
corners, end caps, slip joint connectors, drop outlets, right and
left elbows, double elbows and concrete and plastic splash blocks.
All products are usually sold by the piece, although some retailers
may give you a price if you are remodeling the entire system.
Measurements-
To figure how many lengths and accessories you need for a project,
simply measure along the fascia of the house-from corner to corner.
Note where the gutter makes inside and outside turns, where downspouts
are located (and length), and how many end caps are needed for the
project.
You
can determine from these measurements and components how many hangers,
connectors, downspouts, etc., you have to buy. It's a good idea
to make a sketch of the system on paper, noting the distances, corners,
leader locations, and so on. When you're finished you have an "automatic"
shopping list.
General
Installation Data-
Metal gutters are hung either on hangers or on 7 inch spikes inside
ferrules. Wood gutters are fastened directly to fascia boards with
either galvanized screws or hot-dipped galvanized nails. All gutters
must be located so that the drip edge of the bottom row of shingles
flows into the center of the gutter. Use furring strips or wood
blocks, with flashing, if necessary, to position the guttering.
Fasteners
should be on 30-inch centers. The general rule for gutter pitch
is 1/16-inch per foot. toward the downspout, but you may have to
adjust for less in long systems. When gutters are more than 35 feet
long, it is best to have a down spout at each end, pitching the
gutter from the center to each leader.
Fasten
the downspout to the wall with straps at the top and bottom, and
at 6-foot. intervals. Shim out with wood blocks or spacers if necessary.
Use an elbow to connect the downspout to the gutter at the top.
Put another elbow at the bottom to direct the water onto a splash
block. This will not be necessary, of course, if the downspout connects
to a drainage system. Here, the leader empties directly into the
system through a tile or plastic pipe system or line. Elbow connections
are made with slip joints, pop rivets, or liquid solder as recommended
by the manufacturer of the gutter.
Gutter
may be cut and trimmed with tin snips and/or a hacksaw. This includes
vinyl as well as metal. If you pre-plan the job, you may not have
to make any cuts at all.
