Sump
pumps are rated in gallons per minute (GPM). They also are rated
by motor capacity. A high capacity pump with at least a 1/2-horsepower
(hp) rated motor will handle most flooding conditions easily. Or,
follow the advice of the salesperson at the store or the information
on the containers in which the pumps are packaged. Go one size larger
than recommended. The price is worth it.
TYPES
OF SUMP PUMPS:
There are two types of sump pumps:the upright/pedestal type and
the submersible type.
Upright
Sump Pumps-
The upright or vertical model consists of a motor mounted on a pedestal.
The base of the pedestal rests on the bottom of the sump pit. The
motor, at the top of the pedestal, should never be under water.
This is the most common and least expensive type of sump pump.
The
on-off switch of an upright sump pump is controlled by the position
of a ball float. When the water rises in the pit, it lifts the ball
float up, causing the motor to switch on. Water is then drawn through
an intake valve in the pump base and pumped up through a discharge
pipe and out to the drain. As the water is pumped out of the sump
pit, the float drops down and switches the motor off The water level
in the sump pit should never go lower than 6" or the level of the
intake screen. A dry running pump could be seriously damaged. Always
check the pump if you hear it running continuously.
Submersible
Sump Pumps-
The submersible type of sump pump is usually more expensive than
the upright, but cannot be damaged by flooding and requires little
maintenance. The submersible type can also run for a long continuous
period without damage to the motor.
This
type has two different switch mechanisms. In one type, the pressure
of a certain level of water in the sump pit forces a pressure-sensitive
switch to click on. After enough water is pumped out, the switch
turns the pump off. These switches are easy to replace.
Other
submersible pumps have a switch encased in the tank float. If you
buy this type, be sure to keep the pump and the well clean. Sand,
dirt, or gravel will interfere with the pump switch and may cause
it to run too long, sucking the well dry. If this happens, the pump
must be repaired by a professional.
When
purchasing a sump pump, look for the Underwriter's Laboratory label
and the Sump Pump Manufacturer's Association certification. They
will assure that the pump is electrically safe and will handle the
load of pumping water.
SUMP
PUMP INSTALLATION:
Installation of a pump and its location will depend on the type
of water problems you have and what the local plumbing and electrical
codes require. If you install a pump only as a safeguard against
an unexpected flooding situation, and have only a slight amount
of water tinder normal conditions, locate the sump pump in the lowest
part of the basement near an outside wall. Locating the sump in
a low spot will assure that water will run to the sump.
1.
The first step when installing a sump pump is to prepare the pit.
To do this, it is necessary to make a hole in the basement concrete
floor for a plastic, concrete, or terra-cotta pit liner. The hole
in the floor should be approximately 2" more in diameter than the
liner so the liner can be dropped into the hole and the top of the
floor finished around the edges of the liner.
If
the water problem is really serious, you may need to cut out small
channels in the floor to funnel the water into the sump. These channels
should be more like depressions rather than trenches. Make them
approximately 2" wide by about 1 " deep. Draw the position of the
channels on the floor at the same time you lay out the floor for
the sump system.
A sledgehammer
and cold chisel can be used to break the concrete for the sump pit.
But, it is far better to rent a jackhammer or hire a contractor
to do the job.
The
secret to using a jackhammer is to let the jackhammer do all the
work. You just steer. Hold the handles of the jackhammer lightly,
just guiding it into the concrete. You don't have to push down on
the jackhammer or manhandle it.
