HIGH
WATER IN TANK:
There are two solutions:
- If
there is a float rod adjustment screw atop the ballcock, turn
the screw.
- Gently
bend the float rod downward with your fingers to lower the water.
TOILET
RUNS CONSTANTLY:
Suspicion: a faulty tank ball. The ball is worn out and letting
water bypass it into the toilet. Or, the seat in which the tank
ball fits is corroded or pitted, letting water into the toilet bowl.
The leak drops the float ball in the tank and opens the inlet valve
in the ballcock assembly.
- If
the tank ball is shot, replace it. The rod is threaded; just unscrew
the rod or ball to remove is shot, replace it. The rod is the
ball. Reverse the procedure for a new ball.
- If
the seat is corroded, turn of the water at a supply valve, raise
the tank ball, and buff the seat with fine (0000) steel wool.
Don't remove metal with this abrasive. Just remove the corrosion.
If
you find that the ball/seat is okay, look for trouble at the inlet
valve of the ballcock assembly. The washers may be worn enough so
water bypasses them. Washer replacement is described above.
Also
look for trouble at the float. Try bending the float rod up or down
just a tad. Sometimes the float is just enough out of kilter to
keep the inlet valve slightly open. A tiny adjustment is all that's
needed.
POOR
FLUSHING ACTION:
The problem is not enough water in the flush tank. Try adjusting
the float rod upward with either the adjustment screw on the ballcock
or by gently bending the float arm upward. Bend it gently.
FLUSH
TANK LEAKS:
Generally, leaks can be stopped by just tightening connections with
a wrench.
CAUTION:
Flush tanks and toilet bowls are easily cracked. Take it easy with
wrenches; if a little pressure from the wrench won't stop the leak,
replace the washer or gasket at the connection. If the flush tank
is cracked, replace it immediately. Do not attempt to repair it
because the repair can't be trusted to permanently solve the problem.
The tank may start leaking again-when you're on vacation or away
from home and can't turn off the water.
Leaks
at the Ballcock Connection-
Tighten the nut at the bottom of the tank both inside and out side
the tank. This is where the water supply line enters the tank. Usually,
the base of the ballcock has a tapered rubber fitting. When the
bottom outside nut is tightened, the fitting is drawn into the hole
in the tank with a wedging action, sealing the opening. You will
also have to loosen the nut at the base of the ballcock inside the
tank. When you've tightened the outside nut, tighten the inside
nut accordingly.
Leaks
at the Close Coupled Bolts-
These bolts hold the tank to the toilet. To tighten them use a standard
slot screwdriver from inside the tank and a wrench from the outside.
Because the bolts have rubber washers, do not apply too much pressure.
If tightening doesn't stop the leak, turn off the water supply,
remove the tank, reinstall new washers, and then reassemble the
unit.
Leaks
at the Tank Ball Seat-
The overflow tube and tank ball seat are usually one single unit.
This unit is held to the tank with a nut from under the tank. You
will not be able to reach this nut unless you remove the tank from
the bowl. But before you do this, try turning the tank ball seat
clockwise with your fingers. A tiny turn might be all that's needed
to stop the leak. If not, turn off the water, and disassemble the
flush tank.
Tighten
the nut holding the seat with a pipe or spud wrench-again not too
tightly or you'll crack the tank. If you can't replace it, then
replace the entire unit with a new assembly. The cost is not prohibitive.
Tank
Condensation-
Because the tank contains cold water, moisture may condense on to
it from warm air. Constant dripping can mildew tiles and rugs and
corrode metal parts on the outside of the tank. Such condensation
is usually easy to cure with a waterproof insulation lining. Buy
one at a plumbing supply store, or make one from 1/2 foam rubber
or plastic. To install the lining, turn off the water and completely
dry the inside of the tank. Apply a liberal coating of rubber cement
or silicone glue to the sides of the tank, press the foam in place,
and let it dry for 24 hours before refilling the tank. Make sure
that the foam pad doesn't interfere with the tank's moving parts.
If
the water entering the tank is below (50 degrees F), you may have
to install a tempering valve that mixes hot water with cold to raise
the tank's water temperature. This can be a difficult job because
of the need of a water heater hookup, and is best undertaken by
a professional plumber.
