TANK
WON'T FILL:
If the water is not turned off, this trouble may then be traced
to a faulty ballcock water valve or a stuck float assembly inside
the flush tank.
But,
first, is the water turned on? A curious little boy or girl may
have turned off the supply valve.
Second,
try jiggling the float/arm. Corrosion could be causing it to stick
just enough to prevent the ballcock water valve from opening.
If
jiggling corrects the problem, turn off the water, disassemble the
float/arm at the ballcock assembly, and clean the parts with fine
(0000) steel wool. Don't remove any metal; just buff it shiny bright.
Third,
if corrosion isn't the problem, the ballcock assembly is malfunctioning
and should be replaced.
To
do this, turn off the water supply and sponge out excess water.
Remove the refill tube from the old ballcock (Fig. 4). Screw the
coupling and ballcock locknut. Lift the entire ballcock and float
assembly from the tank. Clean the tank bottom where the ballcock
shank washer seats.
When
replacing the ballcock it is suggested that you use one of the new
types of water savers. To install:
- Adjust
the height of the valve body to ft the tank by turning the threaded
shank in and out of the valve body. Position the valve in the
water supply hole.
- Tighten
the locknut and attach the water supply tube to the threaded valve
shank. Then tighten the coupling nut.
-
Attach the refill tube to the valve and overflow pipe.
- Turn
on the water supply and set the desired water level with the adjustment
clip on the float cup. The tank is ready to operate.
NOISY
TOILETS:
A common cause of loud toilet noises or even leaks is a faulty ballcock
washer. To replace it, remove the two thumbscrews on top of the
ballcock assembly that hold the float arm assembly in place. Lift
the float arm out of the tank and pull the valve plunger up and
out of the ballcock.
Inside
the plunger area are the ballcock washers. If they are worn or damaged,
replace them with exact duplicates. If the ballcock still leaks,
replace the entire assembly.
SPLASHING
SOUNDS INSIDE TANK:
Remove the tank top and flush the toilet. Is water from the bowl
refill tube discharging into the tank? If so, reposition the refill
tube so it spouts into the top of the overflow tube. Do not let
the end of the tube reach below the tank water level-that would
make it siphon tank water away, causing constant slow running of
water.
A faulty
toilet inlet valve is rare, but can cause splashing. If the valve
is at fault, you should be able entire valve assembly or repair
the toilet inlet valve. For either job, the water supply to the
toilet must be turned off.
LOW
WATER IN TANK:
One
of two problems may exist:
- The
float is mis-set. Try bending the float rod up with your fingers.
If the float rod doesn't have an adjustment screw on top of the
ballcock assembly. Make the bend gentle; don't kink the rod.
If there is an adjustment screw, try turning the screw down (clockwise)
to move the arm upward.
The water level in the tank should be about 1/2" to 3/4" below
the top of the overflow tube.
- The
float ball is damaged or water logged causing low water. Also,
a damaged float can cause the toilet to run constantly because
the float never gets high enough in the tank to turn off the inlet
valve in the ballcock. The end of the float rod is threaded like
a machine bolt. Just unscrew the float ball and replace it with
a new one.
- If
the flapper is faulty, it should be replaced. Turn off the water
supply and flush. Remove the chain or wires from the trap lever.
(If replacing a tank ball with a flapper assembly, remove and
discard the ball, lift wires, and guide arm.) Remove the old flapper
by sliding it up and off the overflow tube.
Install
the new flapper by sliding it down over the overflow tube until
the ring touches the tank bottom. Then adjust the flapper ball so
it centers on the valve opening. Adjust the lift chain length as
needed. The valve opening on brass flush valves should be cleaned
with emery cloth or steel wool to remove corrosion and ensure that
the flapper ball seals properly.
