Compression
Nuts. The easiest way for most do-it-yourselfers to assemble
copper tubing (and some smaller sizes of rigid copper pipe) is with
compression nuts. The nuts consist of rings which go onto the pipe
like a ring on your finger after the nut has been slipped onto the
pipe. There are two nuts and two little compression rings to each
joint. When the nuts and rings are in position, you simply screw
the nuts together. The compression provided by the threads pulls
the joint together, forming it. You then tighten the nuts with adjustable
wrenches to complete the union.
But
before assembly, measure (twice) the pipe and cut it square.
Flare
Blocks. Copper tubing also can be assembled by faring the end
of it in a faring block. The block, via pressure from a turned-down
"wedge," flares the end of the pipe to match the fitting it joins.
Some working tips:
- Cut
the tubing to size and square and debur it.
- Position
and lock it in the faring block a tad low in the block, AFTER
you slip on the connector.
- Turn
down the flaring tool or wedge so it starts the flare at the end
of the tubing.
- Reposition
the tubing in the block so the top edge of the tubing is flush
with the surrounding surface of the flaring block.
- Turn
down the flaring tool to complete the flare. The fare has to be
perfectly formed in order to produce a water-tight connection.
If
you attempt to make the flare all at once, you can "bell" the
fare. Once you get the hang of using the block, you can flare
tubing in one operation. Until then take tiny bites for better
flaring results.
PIPE
ADAPTERS:
Copper pipe and tubing can be connected to plastic pipe. Because
plastic is inert and does not react with any metal, no problems
occur when mixing plastic and copper in a water supply or drain
system. You also can buy adapters to join steel and copper pipe.
For
plastic, the fittings are attached to the plastic with plastic pipe
cement after the fitting has been cleaned with plastic pipe cleaner.
One end of the plastic fitting is threaded and it is turned into
a threaded fitting that has been soldered to the copper pipe.
Valves
and other plastic fittings that have compression nuts at the ends
can also be used on copper pipe-such as steel. Just cut out a section
of the pipe to allow insertion of the fitting, and then put it on
line and tighten the nuts. You may have to retighten the nuts about
three times over several days in order to prevent leaks and still
not stress and break the plastic fittings.