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Painting Tips

Rustic Home > Exterior Painting (part 3)
 
 
Painting a Stucco House      

PAINTING TIPS:
Applying paint, as mentioned earlier, is the easiest part of the paint job. You're ready to spread it when all surfaces have been properly cleaned. Below, and in the illustrations, you will find an assortment of selected painting tips designed to make your paint job easier.

  • If a ladder is in your painting picture, be careful setting and climbing it. An extension ladder must be overlapped by three rungs-never less. If you climb onto a roof, make sure there are at least three rungs of the ladder extended over the eaves of the roof.
  • Work on a ladder with your hips between the side rails of the ladder. Do not overreach with your arms; instead, get down and reset the ladder. Ladders must be set with the bottom of the bottom rails level.
    Also, the slope of the ladder should be about 1/4th its length. Example: the ladder is a 20-footer. Slope it away from the vertical surface by 5 feet.
  • "Box-mix" body paint. "Boxing" is pouring the contents of one paint can into a large bucket and then pouring the contents of another paint can into the same bucket. This way, the paint is blended even through you may buy different "batches" at the store. Boxing is especially recommended for mixed colors.
  • To paint fascia, gutters, and soffits, work from left to right (if you're right-handed). Go from top to bottom. Coat the fascia first, then the gutter, and then the soffit.
  • To paint lapped siding, also work from left to right and from top to bottom. This way you will be reaching and working above the top of the ladder, if a ladder is used. Go completely across the house section as on unit. Then go back to the start, lower the ladder, and go completely across the section again.
  • If you're painting grooved siding, use a short bristled brush. Paint the grooves first and then paint the adjoining flat surfaces.
  • If you're painting shingles or shakes, use a short-bristled brush and work up and down the grooves in the singles-not across. Paint the underside of the shingles-where they overlap -first and then move onto the flat surfaces up-and-down.
  • If you're painting concrete block or brick , expect to use about 50% maybe even more paint on the surface than on a normal wood surface. A whitewash brush (7-8-inches. wide) is ideal for applying the paint since the surface is rough and will quickly wear out regular bristles-pure or nylon.
    When the job is finished but t he paint is not yet thoroughly dry the surface may appear blotchy and uneven. If so , let the paint dry completely before you draw any conclusions. If the job is indeed blotchy, another coat of paint is needed. This coat will not require as much paint to cover the same surface-about 50% less in fact.
  • If you're painting stucco , the techniques are the same as for painting brick and block with one exception: double-coat the surface as you paint it. Although double-coating takes about 10% more paint, the additional paint usually assures you of a smooth, blotch-free job when the paint is dry. Never use a Portland cement paint over a stucco surface that has been painted with another type of paint.
  • When painting metal, prime it with a metal primer if the metal is new-never painted. If the metal has been painted and the paint film is solid bonded to the metal, paint over the metal with regular house paint. When painting metal watch carefully for runs and sags in the fresh paint. Use a fairly dry brush or roller when you paint metal surfaces.

Peeling paint almost always is caused by mois ture. Before repainting a peeled, but now clean surface, find out where the moisture is coming from and correct it. Suspect poor ventilation if the peeling is around a bathroom , kitchen or laundry room window Also look for damaged gutters and downspouts if paint is peeling down fascias and down along the siding of a house.

Comment Script

Comments

painting brick
Hello,

I've got a quick question. My house was built in 1971. Its a brick ranch style home. Maybe the brick coloring or style was popular in the 70's,but I can't stand it now.....well.....i guess I could live with it. After 30+ years, the bricks still look brand new. I really would like to paint the house a new color but have no idea were to start. I was hoping you ladies could give me some color hints. I'm a rustic kind of guy. I'm from GA, raised on my grandfathers farm. I was wondering if you could post some diffrent color schemes that would work for my house. Oh yeah, I have a burgundy tin roof (man I love tin roofs) so that puts a limit on the colors I can use.

PS. you can respond directly to e-mail at johnh@truehardwoods.com

Thanks
John from GA
#0 - John - 05/31/2008 - 07:49
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