Stippling-can
be done on any surface, even curved molding-
This finish is similar to sponging but is much more refined as the
glaze is simply moved and transformed with a finely-bristled stippling
brush. A stippling brush is a large, square brush with short, very
fine bristles. They can be expensive but are worth the price for
the finish they make on large surfaces. For smaller surfaces a shoe
brush, clothes brush or short stain brush will do the job. Stippling
is more difficult than any rag technique because imperfections will
show. Rag application is inherently varied but stippling makes a
delicate, slightly elevated, consistent finish. The glaze must be
oil to maintain workability.
- Carefully
fill all cracks and imperfections in surfaces. Prime if necessary
and apply base coat.
- As
with other large surfaces, have a partner paint the glaze on the
surface in strips just ahead of your progress. A roller makes
stipple-like marks naturally so use a brush only in corners.
- With
the clean, dry bristles of the stipple brush, gently dab the brush
down the vertical row of glaze. Just touch the surface straight
on so the glaze is transformed into tiny, raised droplets. If
the brush doesn't hit and jump back out it will smudge the glaze
and leave a blank "hole" of base color.
- Both
workers move across the surface, one painting on the glaze, and
the other blending the stippled rows into each other.
Try not to go over areas twice-you'll create gaps. Also be sure
to keep the bristles of the brush clean, dry and soft.
Dragging-trim
and molding, flat surfaced furniture-
Dragging produces a striped effect by pulling a dry brush in rows
across a wet glaze surface. A dragging brush will create soft lines
through glazed surfaces. Dragging is not recommended for large surfaces
because it is difficult to keep the lines straight, but can be done
with a plumb bob marking the vertical rows. The base coat can be
oil-or water-based satin paint and the glaze should be a very opaque,
oil-based liquid applied in a light film.
This
technique requires a brush with long clusters of bristles called
a dragging brush, over-grainer, or flogger brush. Keep this tool
dry and fairly clean while dragging or it will not pick up glaze.
- Prepare
the surface by filling holes and sanding or de-glossing any varnishes.
Prime if necessary.
-
Apply an even base coat and allow to dry.
- Begin
by rolling the surface with a complete coat of glaze. Don't worry
too much about brush marks; the dragging will incorporate them
into the finish.
-
Pull the dragging brush across the surface in a long, straight
and steady motion. Move from one end to another end. Never stop
mid-point because the lines will be jagged.
- Wipe
bristles off before starting the next pass. Keep a wet edge between
passes but don't overlap or the stripes will be too narrow at
this point.
Combing-flat,
small surfaces like tables and cabinets-
This technique is similar to dragging except it creates a visually
more interesting pattern. By using different tools, some which you
can make yourself patterns are created where the glaze is lifted
off. As with all the techniques move your hand steadily to a stopping
point. If you muddle an area, or stop mid point, the surface must
be reglazed and started over.
Combs
are available from art stores or mail-order catalogs. They come
in metal, plastic, wood or rubber and have varying teeth width and
length. You can create a tooth pattern from heavy stock card board
or from a plastic lid cut in half. Use a material that will not
bend under the pressure of dragging.
- Follow
steps 1-3 as above.
- Hold
the comb firmly but don't apply too much pressure to the surface.
Drag the comb across the surface at slightly less than 90 degrees.
Wipe
off the glaze on the comb after every pass. It is important that
the teeth of the comb stay fairly dry or they will just smudge the
glaze.
When
combing try these finishes:
- Drag
the comb in vertical rows across the entire surface then immediately
comb horizontally to create a tiny boxed pattern.
- Start
at a corner of the surface and make a vertical box pattern several
inches long. Pick up the comb sharply and turn it perpendicular
to the first box. Make a horizontal box of the same length beside
it. Repeat the vertical then horizontal pattern to create perpendicular
boxes.
- Start
at the top and go down vertically in a wavy row. Try to follow
the pattern of rows when moving across the surface. When complete,
begin horizontal wavy rows across the whole surface to make a
moiré pattern.