THE
GLAZING TECHNIQUES:
All of the following techniques employ the same formula of a gloss,
eggshell, or satin base color that is seen through the broken color
and translucence of one or more top coats of colored glaze. The
differences lie in whether the glaze is added or subtracted on the
surface and how it is moved about. Results are quite pleasing with
simple rags moved skillfully, but can be even more striking by using
special brushes and tools.Sponging-for
walls, ceilings, flat surfaced furniture and cabinets-
This is perhaps the easiest of all the techniques as the goal is
a random, uneven pattern. One of the keys to decorative finishes
is to have a consistent flow, even in broken color effects. Keep
your hand moving. Over-sponging creates muddled and splotchy areas
instead of the fields of dotted color you are after. It's best to
use a natural, sea sponge because of the irregular shape but a synthetic
sponge can be torn to remove all fat surfaces and edges. Sponging
looks best with multiple layers of color over the base. For subtle
depth use varying shades of one color over the base; for more vivid
shading, use contrasting colors. As a rule of thumb, sponge on darkest
colors first and progress to the lighter shades--this encourages
depth illusion.
- After
patching, sanding and priming, apply the base coat of paint and
allow to dry.
- Pour
the darkest glaze mixture in the roller tray. Soak the sponge
in thinner (mineral spirits its for oil-based, water for water-based)
and wring it almost dry. The fluid in the sponge will further
soften the effect. Do not have so much liquid in the sponge that
glaze runs down the surface.
- Load
the darkest glaze onto the sponge and dab it on scrap paper first.
This will prevent a heavy start. Begin moving the sponge in vertical
rows across the surface. Allow spaces for other colors; don't
try to coat the surface with this color. Move your hand constantly
while dabbing with your wrist and turning the sponge periodically.
When you are finished clean the tray and sponge.
- When
the first color coating is dry and the sponge is remoistened,
fill the tray with a second glaze color and begin applying it
to the surface in a horizontal pattern.
-
Repeat with more colors if desired.
The
above procedure is an additive process with glaze. To make the sponging
effect more delicate, apply the base coat, let it dry, then roll
sections with glaze. Remove some of the glaze by dabbing the wall
with a clean and dry sponge. Rinse and wring the sponge frequently
in the appropriate thinner. You create the same effect by rolling
on thinned paint instead of glaze.
Ragging-for
walls, doors, flat surfaced furniture-
The effect of this finish depends on the colors in your glaze, the
contrast to the base coat, and primarily upon what type of material
is used to add or subtract one or more coats of glaze. Rag rolling
produces a formal pattern that works well on large surfaces. Roll
in vertical columns. The most common material (for an elegant and
mellow effect) is soft, clean, lint-free cotton squares. Cut these
squares from old clothing or bedding, but watch for loose threads.
Cheesecloth
also makes a soft pattern. More striking surfaces are made with
lace, canvas or burlap. For the following subtractive method two
people are required to apply and work oil glaze over a semi-gloss
latex base on the walls of a room. The oil glaze has a longer dry
time and thus is more workable, but latex glaze will work on smaller
surfaces. Keep the glaze consistency loose and fairly transparent
for a true blended effect.
- Prepare
surfaces thoroughly, clean any dirt and dust, then prime if necessary.
- Paint
all walls in the chosen base color. Use a semi-gloss or satin
finish. This coat can be latex paint.
- When
the base coat is dry, the first person rolls the glaze on the
wall in vertical strips about 3 feet wide. Apply the glaze as
a thin but even coating. Too much glaze will quickly saturate
the cloth and result in a muddled effect.
- Using
a loosely bunched cloth that is moist from paint thinner, the
second person begins dabbing at the vertical column of glaze to
reveal the base color and blend the glaze. The motion needs to
be varied. Try turning your wrist various ways while moving the
cloth. Dab at the wall because too much pressure makes "holes"
and fingerprints in the finish.
- Progress
in a staggered manner while always working the vertical columns
of glaze into each other. As the second person finishes dabbing
a row, the next row should be prepared.
- Always
work to a natural stopping spot such as the end of a wall. If
you quit in the middle of a surface and allow the glaze to dry,
you will not get nice blending. Also remember to wring out or
change cloths when glaze is not coming off.
Rag
Rolling--walls and doors-
This technique works well for large surfaces rather than on furniture.
Rolling is much like the ragging technique except it produces a
more formal and repetitious pattern. Work with a partner. Use oil
glaze on a semi-gloss latex base color.
- Follow
steps 1-3 for "Ragging".
- Take
a piece of cotton cloth about 2 feet square and loosely roll it
into a cylindrical shape. Dip the roll in thinner to get it a
little moist. Starting at the top of the wall roll down a row.
Always roll walls in vertical columns.
- Begin
the next row by slightly overlapping the previous one. It is imperative
to keep a wet edge on the columns for proper blending. Wring out
or change any saturated rolls. Remember to work to a natural stop
before changing rag rolls.
It is not recommended that you roll another color as the finish
becomes too busy.