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Ceiling Fan Installation on Various Surfaces

Rustic Home >Ceiling Fans (part 3)
 
 
      

ON EXPOSED BEAMS-
If the fan will be mounted on an exposed beam ceiling, such as in a room with cathedral ceiling, position the fan between the beams, using a 2x4 or 2x6-inch length of wood between the beams to hang the fan. You can use a fan with a ball-and-socket type (swivel) hanging device. Or, you can buy a "Hang-Fast" bracket (or similar bracket) for the installation. There usually must be 6 ins. of space for the bracket. Brackets also may be used where attic crawl space is not available for mounting and hooking up the ceiling fan.

The blocking between exposed beams can be spiked to the beams with 16d or 20d nails. If 16d, use finishing nails, countersink the nailheads, and fill the holes with a matching wood filler.

Then install a ceiling electrical box to the wood blocking. Knock out the round plug in the bottom or side of the box to accept the power wire and the box connection. The knockout is also for the hanger, which is fastened to the blocking through the knockout. Do not fasten the hanger to the ceiling box. The ceiling box hanger will be covered by the coiling escutcheon usually provided in the fan kit.

ON FINISHED CEILINGS-
If the fan will be installed on a finished ceiling that has no outlet/wiring, find a joist or rafter behind the ceiling covering and cut a hole through the covering where you want the fan to be located. Make the hole a bit larger than the electrical outlet box that you must install.

With a saw, notch the framing member the width and depth of the box so the bottom of the box will be flush with the surface of the ceiling. Or, mount it on the side of the framing member so the bottom is almost flush with the bottom of the ceiling material.

Power wires (12/2 with ground) are "fished" between the joists or above them, if there is a crawl space above the ceiling. The power may be tapped from an existing circuit (turn off the power before working), or you can run a brand new circuit from the main electrical panel. Have a professional electrician make this connection. Since a ceiling fan doesn't require special electrical power, try to tie-in to the power on an existing circuit.

PITCHED CEILING OR BEAM-
If the ceiling is slightly pitched or the fan will hang from a beam, it is recommended that you use either a swivel hanger or angle kit. These hangers permit the fan to hang level. The fan can be supported by a hook. You'll need a block of wood to support the hook and fan. Use a short length of 4x4. Pre-drill it and bolt it to the beam. The power wire can be staple-nailed along the top or bottom edge of a beam and then routed into the electrical ceiling box. You can paint or stain the cable so it matches the beam and doesn't show.

Mount the bracket and put the blades into the holders. Now fasten the blades to the fan Switch operation from fan. Wiring hookup is for 3-speed pull chain. Wiring provides for optional light kit, which is operated independently of the fan by pull chain switch. Ground is green.

GENERAL FAN ASSEMBLY:
Most ceiling fans are assembled the same way. There may be slight variations between manufacturers, but the difference will be noted in the instructions in the fan package, if present. Here's the procedure:

  1. Screw the hanger to a framing member, making sure the hanger and the framing member is securely fastened. The hanger may go "through" a knockout in the electrical box.
  2. It is never connected to the box. Run the downrod through the canopy. Then run the three electrical wires from the fan through the downrod assembly.
  3. Assemble the downrod into the motor stem. e Attach the downrod to the motor stem, insert the bolt provided and insert and spread the cotter pin. Fasten the set screw so it is secure.
  4. Lift the fan into position without the blades attached. Put the vaulted ceiling mount or swivel into the hanger bracket. Now connect the power wires as explained elsewhere in this article.
  5. If the fan has a light kit, remove the switch housing on the fan and the center screw. Screw the light kit onto the bottom plate. Have a helper hold the kit assembly in position while you connect the fan's blue wire to the light's black wire and the fan's white wire to the light's white wire. Use wire nuts for these splices and wrap them with electrician's tape (plastic type). Now screw on the bottom plate, light and attach the glass.
  6. Mount the bracket and put the blades into the holders. Now fasten the blades to the fan motor. The unit is assembled.
  7. Connect the fan to power. The white wire goes to white, and black to black. The ground wire connects to the ceiling box via a screw or clip. Or it is spliced to an incoming ground wire. Check to make sure that the fan operates in forward and reverse. If the fan has a light kit, test the lights at this point.

Wiring hookup to control light from a wall switch-
This connection lets you control the fan with the factory 3-speed control, but with a separate wall switch for an optional light kit.

To control fan with 3-speed transformer and a standard wall switch or supplemental variable control. For variable speed, leave pull chain on the high speed setting.

To control fan and the light from a wall switch. Put the pull chain on high speed, although the chain can be put in any speed without damaging the motor.

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