BACKGROUND
INFORMATION:
The blades of ceiling fans must be at least 7 feet from the floor.
There should be at least 12 inches of clearance between the top
of the blades and the ceiling surface of the room in which the fan
is installed. The blades should also be free to rotate: no obstructions
in the rotation path. If you are doubtful about blade clearance,
be sure to check the length of the fan blades at the store. Ceiling
fans operate on regular housepower. You can connect the fans directly
to the wires in a ceiling outlet box, for example. No electric transformers
or special switching devices are needed. Or, you can run a power
wire to the outlet box. Buy No. 12/2 wire with ground for this installation.
You can tap into an existing power wire in the attic or crawl space.
Or, you can fish a wire to a wall outlet and tap into power at this
point. A third alternative is to run a wire from the main electrical
entrance panel. However, you should have a professional make this
connection-and the other connections, if you don't have the know-how.
CAUTION:
Before working with electrical wires, turn off the power to the
circuit on which you will be working at the main electrical service
entrance. Do not flip a switch in the room and expect the power
to be off. Go to the source panel.
Installation
Data:
Hanging brackets can vary slightly by fan design and the manufacturer
of the fan. Most brackets have a ball and socket of J-hook suspension.
The ball-and-socket keeps the fan in a level mode while it is running
-and not running and the device also helps prevent vibration and
noise created by the rotation of the fan blades at various speeds.
Some
manufacturers suspend their fans with a J-hook device. The fan just
hooks over a bracket connected to a ceiling joist or other similar
framing in the ceiling.
To
install any ceiling fan to an existing outlet in the ceiling, remove
the ceiling light first. In order: remove the cap nut holding the
decorative covering or escutcheon over the electrical ceiling box;
then unscrew the lock nut, strap or hanger bracket, and the stud
or nipple assembly that connects to the center of the box; after
you turn off the power at the main service entrance, disconnect
the power wires from the light socket assembly. If there is just
an escutcheon or decorative plate hiding the ceiling box, simply
remove the nut holding the escutcheon to the box.
If
there is no light or escutcheon, there may still be an electrical
box hidden by plaster or gypsum board joint cement. If you get at
an angle to the light on the ceiling, you may be able to detect
a slight texture difference in ceiling material, and that's where
the box will be located. Peel back the ceiling covering material
with a cold chisel and hammer to reveal the ceiling box or electrical
connection at this point.
SWIVEL
BRACKET-
The bracket usually is attached to the framing member that supports
the electrical box. This member can be a joist, rafter, or "cripple"
that has been nailed into position to support the electrical box.
Do
not attach the bracket to the electrical box make sure the bracket
is fastened to a framing member that is securely fastened. This
framing must support the weight of the fan as well as the torque
produced by the rotation of the fan blades.
J
HOOKS-
If the fan will be mounted on J-hooks the device is also fastened
to a framing member such as a ceiling joist. It goes through a knockout
in the bottom of the electrical box directly into the framing member.
Do not fasten the j hook to the electrical box.
