Starting
seeds in containers-
Direct seeding can be risky. A sudden cold spell, a torrential rain,
or hot drying winds can reduce germination or wipe out little plants.
Starting seeds in containers and growing them under controlled conditions
into robust seedlings avoids these problems. All of the necessary
materials can be purchased at a nursery or garden center. Sow
seeds in 4-inch plastic containers filled nearly to the top with
moist potting soil. Wet the sown seeds with a household spray bottle
and set the pot in a warm part of the house out of direct sunlight.
Keep seeds moist by spraying or by enclosing the containers in plastic
bags. When the seeds have germinated, place the containers under
lights for at least 12 hours a day. Whenever the potting soil dries,
set the containers in a shallow tray filled with water so the soil
absorbs water from the bottom, which encourages deep rooting. (Remember
to remove the containers and allow them to drain).
Feed
the plants once a week with a soluble fertilizer diluted to one
half or one quarter the ordinary rate. Raise the lights as the plants
grow to keep the tubes about 2 inches above the top leaves.
After
the plants have developed their first true leaves, transplant the
seedlings to individual containers. Four- or six-cell plastic packs
work well for small plants; use 3-inches or 4-inches pots for plants
that quickly grow large. Fill the cells or pots with fresh, moistened
potting soil. Holding a seedling gently by a leaf, prick it out
of its pot with a sharpened pencil, taking care to disturb its roots
and attached soil as little as possible. Poke a hole in the soil
of the new cell or container, insert the seedling, and fill around
it to bury the roots. Larger seedlings can be suspended in an empty
cell while you add potting soil around the roots. Place the cell
packs or individual containers under lights again, watering and
feeding as before.
When
the seedlings are large enough to put in the garden (after the last
frost for tender plants), they need to be acclimated to conditions
outdoors. Begin with a few hours in a spot protected from direct
sunlight and wind, increasing to full exposure over several days.
TRANSPLANTING
OUTDOORS:
The procedure for setting container-grown plants in the garden is
the same for plants you've grown from seeds or for those you purchase.
Space the plants according to their mature size. Closely spaced
plants will fill in more quickly, but they can become ungainly or
unhealthy. A mulch of compost, bark chips, or grass clippings can
keep weeds down and conserve moisture while young plants are too
small to cover the spaces between. (Spread mulch first, then plant
through it.) If you're planting large, slow-growing ground covers,
consider planting annuals between them for several seasons.
Before
transplanting, water the container and let it drain until the soil
is moist but not soggy. Try to disturb the root ball as little as
possible as you slide it from the cell or pot. Gently loosen congested
roots on the bottom and lower sides of the root ball; unwrap any
that encircle the ball. Place the plant into the prepared bed or
planting hole so that the top of the root ball is at soil level.
Fill the hole about halfway with soil, then soak the root ball with
water, let it drain, and then add the remaining soil, firming it
gently around the stem. Water is crucial for new plants; if nature
doesn't oblige, provide 1 inch per week for the growing season-even
for drought-tolerant plants. Ground covers that are adapted to the
conditions of your region and site should, once they're established,
require minimal care.
To
avoid losing young plants to wind or rain erosion on sloping sites,
you can construct small "terraces." For mild slopes, a mound of
earth on the downhill side may suffice to hold the plant in place
until its roots take hold. On steeper sites, you might construct
a barrier by pushing a wooden shingle into the ground below the
plant, or pile a few rocks or bricks in place. Heavy mulch is invaluable
for breaking the force of driving rain or wind.
INCREASING
YOUR SUPPLY:
Once you've gotten a ground cover started, either through purchasing
plants or by growing them from seeds, it will often provide new
plants to expand the patch or to start a new one. As mentioned earlier,
some ground covers reproduce when above- or below-ground stems put
down roots and send up leaves. For aboveground stems (called runners
or stolons), you can aid this process by pinning the stem to the
ground at a node (a swelling on the stem where a leaf or branch
can develop) and regularly moistening the surrounding soil. When
the new plants offer some resistance to a gentle tug, sever the
connection to the parent, dig them up, and transplant them.
