The
bottom line of any successful lawn project is how hard you are willing
to work at it. The neighbor's lawn, which you may envy for its beauty,
looks greener, thicker, and weed-free because the neighbor probably
spends a lot of time and effort making it that way. The point is
that the neighbor probably has a goal in mind and works toward it.
The goal does not require a green thumb or even a lot of knowledge.
There is no mystery involved. Greener
grass starts with planting. It then progresses to mowing, watering,
fertilizing, weed control, insect control, raking, and thatching.
You can follow through on any one or two of these categories of
lawn management you want. For example, just keep up with mowing
and watering and forget the rest. The end result, of course, probably
will not be a picture-perfect lawn. That usually requires you to
follow the entire regimen of proper lawn management.
In
this 3-part article you'll find the basics of a good, green, thick
lawn. Just follow the directions and you can be assured of a lawn
that the neighbor will envy.
FIRST,
WHAT TYPE LAWN?:
Climate and soil are the determining factors in deciding what types
of grass you should plant and/or maintain. For example, growing
Bermuda grass in Minnesota would have its problems; bluegrass, fine
fescue, bent grass, tall fescue, and ryegrass would be the best
choices.
Four
other factors when choosing turf grass are:
- What
type of lawn do you want? One for show or one for "go" (that is,
for lawn tennis, a golf clipping area, baseball, badminton, or
other lawn games)?
-
How much monthly maintenance is needed? Is water plentiful? Will
the turf grass respond well to mowing and fertilizing?
- What
are the physical limitations of your lawn? Factor in such items
as slope, shade, air circulation, high wind, and sunlight.
- What
is the chemical balance of the soil? Do yourself a big favor and
make a simple soil test. The test is easy and inexpensive and
it can save you plenty of time and money now and in the years
ahead.
Help
with the answers to these questions follows.
TYPES
OF TURF GRASSES:
The following descriptions of turf grasses will help you select
those that will grow best in your part of the nation.
There
are blends of these grasses and other strains of grasses. If you
don't like what you see here, consult a quality nursery in your
community.
BLUEGRASS-
Picture a map of the United States. Draw a line across the states
from about Los Angeles through the upper part of New Mexico, Kansas,
Missouri, the upper half of Illinois, down through eastern Tennessee
and up through the center of the Carolinas to about Virginia Beach,
Va. This northern area has the right climate and soil for growing
bluegrass as well as fine fescue, bent grass, tall fescue, and ryegrass.
There
are about 200 species of this grass. It is dark green in color and
has medium-textured blades (see drawing). The popular strains of
bluegrass include Merion, Newport, Vantage, Victa, Windsor, Bristol,
Merit, and common Kentucky.
Bluegrass
requires moderate amounts of water. It may turn brownish in hot
weather, but a little watering will restore its rich color.
Keep
bluegrass cut at 1 1/2- to 2 inches high. You may even prefer to
leave it at 2 1/2 inches for a carpet effect and that cushiony feeling
when you walk over it.
Feed
the grass during the growing season or during the fall and winter.
Bluegrass loves soil that is slightly acid-6.7pH (see charts). If
you run a soil test, you may find that the soil needs a ground limestone
treatment every 3 to 5 years. The amount of limestone usually required
is 25 pounds for each 1000 sq. ft.
