DICHONDRA-
This grass is for Southern California and Arizona. It has dicot
or kidney-shaped leaves.
Dichondra
can be grown via plugs or from seed. Plant it during the early summer
months and use plenty of water to get it started. This cover should
be cut from 3/4- to 1 1/4 inches; fertilize it every other month.
ST.
AUGUSTINE GRASS-
This is a warm weather grass and it does best in Florida, around
the Gulf Coast, and in California. It is easy to grow from stolons
(runners) and sod.
Best
mowing height is from 1-1/2 to 3 inches. It must not be cut any
lower than 1-1/2 inches.
Fertilize
St. Augustine grass four times annually; since it grows in ample
rainfall areas, you may not have to water it frequently. However,
if the weather turns dry, see that the grass gets plenty of water.
ZOYSIA-
Zoysia grows best in the upper half of the nation. There are several
varieties: Korean, Japanese, Manila, and Meyer are examples. The
grass has a fine to medium texture. It grows and greens from a dormant
state when the temperatures rise above 60 degrees.
Keep
zoysia cut from 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches high. Fertilize it four times
yearly-spring, summer, fall, and winter-and give it plenty of water
to drink. This grass likes a 6.0 to 6.5 pH.
The
best planting time for improved varieties of zoysia is in the warm
spring months. Plant sprigs in rows that are spaced about 4 to 6
inches apart. If you are starting zoysia from seed, mix it with
Kentucky bluegrass. The bluegrass helps establish the zoysia which
will overpower the bluegrass in a couple of years.
SOIL
TESTS AND PH INFORMATION-
There are two ways to test soil. Buy a fairly inexpensive soil-testing
kit at a nursery or a lawn and garden outlet. Or, take a soil sample
to a county agricultural agent for testing. This agency will charge
you less than $5 for the test and it will be accurate. Do not send
soil samples to the U.S. Department of Agriculture; this agency
does not test soil-at least for homeowners.
To
gather soil for a test, cut the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Go
straight down with a spade to expose various soil "levels" within
the 6 inches. Then cut a 1/2-inch thick slab of soil from the edge
of the hole. If your lawn area is large (more than an acre), take
samples from different sections. Mix the samples together in a bucket
and use a small sample of this for the test.
What
a soil test does is measure how acid or how alkaline the soil is.
The results are measured on a pH scale, which is used by chemists
to indicate alkalinity or acidity. The number 7 on the pH scale
is a neutral rating. Ratings lower than 7 mean that the soil is
acid. Numbers higher than 7 mean that the soil is alkaline or sweet.
Turf
grass does best, as a general rule of thumb, in soil with a pH of
6.0 to 6.5.
To
sweeten acid soil, limestone is commonly used. It's available as
finely ground stone, hydrated lime, and oyster shell lime. Hydrated
lime is fast acting and should be avoided. The other types act more
slowly, but you will need more of these types than hydrated to do
the job. Aluminum sulfate or sulfur are the choices if you need
to make the soil more acid.
If
the soil is heavy-such as clay-use a bit more limestone or chemical.
And in any case, go easy. The pH should change only one unit each
year. You'll be tempted to change the pH faster, but soil experts
claim that it's best to let the soil adjust gradually.
Lime
conditions the soil; it is not a fertilizer. It helps loosen hard,
clay soil, and it helps humus decay faster. Do not apply lime and
manure fertilizer at the same time. The lime works chemically on
the manure and the benefits are lost. Ideally, the manure should
be plowed or spaded under the soil, and then the lime applied on
top.
