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How to Build a Concrete Driveway

Rustic Home >Concrete Driveways (part 2)
 
 
      
Pitching The Driveway-
The driveway should also provide a pitch of from 1/4 to 1/2 inch to the foot. This is considered a minimum in most areas. You can give a sideways pitch to the entire drive, but the best plan is to crown the driveway, providing pitch from the center to both sides.

To create the proper pitch from the center to the edges, the slab is placed in two stages. First, the form for the entire driveway is built. Then a centered stop board is inserted lengthwise in the form. It runs from the garage to the street, and must be high enough to create the correct pitch.

If your driveway is to be 20 feet wide, the center of the placement must be 5 inches (10-1/2 inch) higher than the outside edges of the slab. The form boards at the garage and street must correspond to this pitch, and the top edge of the centered stop board must be 5 inches higher than the side form boards. The center joint between the two sections of the slab will be held together with a butted construction joint.

Excavating/Base Materials-
Lay out the dimensions of the pour and excavate as needed. The depth and width of an excavation depends on the project, its specifications and codes.

A correctly prepared excavation has several characteristics. A uniform sub grade ensures a consistent response to temperature and moisture changes. Level the earth surface so there are no deep holes or protruding objects. Remove all large rocks, roots, and other debris from the area. Tamp the sub grade, either with a hand tamper or a mechanical one. The sub grade should follow the angle or slope of the ground.

Setting the Grade-
Set the grade for the driveway by staking it and leveling it, as ring Stake B shown in illustration A. Excavating is easier to do from this level string point as is building the concrete forms. Construction joints occur (B) since a long driveway must be laid in sections. Key the Slab 1 " below garage floor sections, if the slab is more than 4 inches thick or butted if 4 inches or less. A construction strip is used at the center of a driveway (C) pitched from the center to each side for adequate drainage. If the driveway runs downhill toward the garage, install a drain for water. Construction or control joints are very important in large slabs of concrete. They help prevent the concrete from cracking and heaving due to frost and rain and normal settling of the slab.

Base materials of sand, gravel and rock are placed at the bottom of the excavation to prevent settling and heaving and to aid drainage. They also provide a level surface on which to place the concrete.

The depth of the base is often regulated by codes. Find out how much base you need as you did for concrete, but order twice as much as your figures indicate. This is because the base materials will compress to half their original size when tamped.

Order of Placement-
First, place the gravel in at least two layers. Tamp each layer so the top of the final layer is 2 inches below the bottom edge of the concrete pour. Then add sand. Keep adding and tamping until you have a level layer that reaches to the top of the pour. Follow this order. The depth of any given layer may vary according to code. The level is checked with a strike board that you make.

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President
5 1/2 inches for 10' is way more than needed. Your plow would not touch the ground in the winter.The crown would be so dramatic that the
plows would scrape the center and would have day light under both sides. I use 11/2" for every 10 feet but all you really need is 1" to every 10' to make the water runoff.
#1 - Ben Pequeno - 01/12/2008 - 09:48
The suggestion of crowning a driveway at the garage is not the best course of action. Keep in mind that the garage door must have a relatively level surface to contact with. If one were to crown the garage entrance 4 or 5 inches at the center there would be a 4 or 5 inch gap under the door at the edges of the door.
#0 - john - 09/14/2007 - 18:00
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