How to Make A Roux:A roux is used to thicken gumbo, etouffee, and other Cajun and creole dishes. Although it is available pre-made in jars, many cooks prefer the thrill of making roux themselves. The preparation of a roux may take as long as an hour of constant stirring, however, so it's not something to make on a busy day.
A roux is basically a mixture of equal parts oil and flour, cooked in a heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, until it reaches the desired consistency and color. The darker the roux, the more intense the flavor. Dark roux is usually preferred for gumbo, while light, "blond" roux is preferred for more delicate dished like etouffee.
To begin, turn on the answering machine, let the dog out, and tell your children to postpone their crises--your roux-making will need your constant attention. Heat your skillet and pour in the oil, then mix in the flour. Peanut oil works best for high heat cooking; if you're using another oil, you must lower the heat and cook the roux longer.
Using a wooden spoon, begin stirring, careful not to let the hot mixture splatter--they don't call it "Cajun napalm" for nothing! You can also use a wire whisk, to ensure even mixing. Roux must be stirred constantly to avoid burning. Once you smell burnt flour, or see flecks of black, you've burned the roux, and you must throw it out and start all over.
The roux is done just before it reaches the desired color--it will continue to cook for a minute or two after you've turned off the heat. The color can range from blond or light brown, to the color of peanut butter, to a rich milk chocolate shade. Anything darker than this is difficult to achieve without burning, and best left to the pros. A light roux may take only ten minutes, a dark roux, if cooked over low heat, may take as long as an hour.
Some recipes call for sauteing vegetables in the roux. Add these during the last few minutes of cooking the roux. It will slow down the cooking process somewhat, which may be a good thing.
Some Cajun chefs are experimenting with oil-less roux in low-fat dishes. To do this, simply brown flour in a hot skillet, stirring as you would for a roux, until the flour is caramel colored.
When the roux is done, add to recipes as called for in the directions. Sometimes you can cook the dish in the same saute pan you've used for making the roux, particularly a light roux-based dish like etouffee or creole. You may not be pleased with your results the first few times you make roux: you may inadvertently burn it. If you suspect you've burned the roux, let it cool and taste a small amount. A smoky, nutty taste is okay.
Don't let the exacting requirements for a roux discourage you; after all, Cajuns are rarely uptight enough to fret over a ruined roux. The most important instruction, therefore, is relax! Pour a glass of wine, put some zydeco on the stereo, roll up your sleeves, and go for it!
