Building kick panels really isn't that hard, it just takes time
and some patience. The hardest part for me was applying the vinyl, but even that
just requires lots of patience.
Tools/materials I used to build the kicks:
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Jig saw.
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Router table (a portable router will also work, it will just
be a little more difficult).
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Round-over bit.
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1/2" MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard).
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Dowel Rod, 1/2" diameter (I also used some smaller
stuff when I ran out of the 1/2")
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Knytex woven fiberglass (cheaper stranded mat will also
work, but isn't as strong. You will need more layers).
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Polyester fiberglass resin/hardener. I just used the Bondo
branded stuff and it worked fine.
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Latex surgical gloves.
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Cheap, throw-away paint brushes, 1"-2" bristles.
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3M masking tape (the expensive stuff, for painting cars).
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Tin foil.
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Plastic bags.
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Screwdriver.
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Hot glue gun.
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some sort of saw to cut the dowel rods (I used a hack saw
with a metal cutting blade, easy and clean cuts).
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fleece or grill cloth (preferably fleece for strength).
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Spray Glue, preferably 3M Contact 80 and/or 90.
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vinyl if you choose to cover it that way, or paint.
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Bondo (or similar stuff) to smooth the surface.
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Sander/sandpaper.
With my kick panel pods, I decided to build around my stock
kicks to be able to easily remove my pods and still have the original,
un-molested kicks in place. It also made getting the right form easier. My kicks
slide under a trim piece in the door way and also go under the sill plates. To
just make those pieces would of probably just of made things harder so that's
also why I molded around the stock kicks.
I first put tape on the carpet, making sure
to do so generously, covering most all the floor. I then covered the stock kicks
in tin foil to protect them and make pulling the mold out easy to do. After that
I taped down some plastic trash bags all around the working area. Resin is VERY
MESSY and nearly impossible to get out of carpet and interior parts, so make
sure everything is covered. I should of also put some plastic on the lower part
of the dash, but didn't. I would tell anyone else to do so, just for precaution.
Its better to be prepared than to not be and then screw up your interior. Once
that was done, I went and laid more tin foil down on the floor board where I
would actually be placing the resin/mat. You could just use mold release on the
tape, but with the foil taking the mold out is effortless.
The next thing I did was to start applying the fiberglass.
Before I even started opening the cans of resin, I would put on the gloves. This
stuff is very messy and takes a while to get off your hands.
Its best to pre-cut your mat before you start
mixing the resin/hardener. Make the pieces small and easy to manage. Using large
pieces will just make things more difficult. After getting your mat cut, mix the
resin/hardener as said by the manufacturer. I found it best to lay the mat on
the floor and then brush the resin into it, making sure to soak the entire
piece. Then just place the soaked mat into place. When doing vertical or even
overhead pieces I found it to work best to apply the side that you 'painted' to
the piece, it would stick and hold its place pretty good that way.. After you
get all the pieces laid and covered an area larger than you need, let the
resin dry. Depending on temperature, humidity, how you mixed the resin/hardener
it could take anywhere from 1.5hrs to 10hrs. I ended up leaving mine for about
36hrs (I went out of town for a day).
Next I made the baffles from the 1/2" MDF. I drew 2
circles, one for the woofer and the other for the tweeter and then just made a
rounded connecting line to connect the two smoothly. After drawing it on the
MDF, I then used the jig saw to cut it out. Once I got the shape cut, I used the
round-over bit on the router table to round the edges. I ended up having to do
both sides to get a smooth round.
The next thing I did was attach the baffles to the molds. This
is probably the most important part. aligning the speakers for best imaging. I
used towels to hold the spkrs and baffle in place and then went through the
AutoSound2000 test disk to get the optimum imaging. Once that is done, then you
start hot gluing pieces of dowel rod from the baffle to the fiberglass mold to
hold it in that position. This was one of the more difficult parts. It took me a
while to get the dowel rods glued in place w/o shifting or moving the baffle.
But once you get it braced all the way around then test the imaging again
(wrapping the towels around the backside of the spkrs to help isolate the front
of the spkr from the back).
The next thing to do is stretch fleece around the baffle and
mold and make the shape that you want. First you will want to spray glue on the
baffle and fleece where it touches the baffle. Apply the fleece to the baffle
and let it set for a little bit to let the glue get a good hold, and then start
stretching the fleece around the part. I don't know of any way to tell someone
how to do it other than to just start doing it. Try to get as many wrinkles out
as possible, but don't worry if there are some, the bondo will fix that. To
attach the fleece to the backside, I used some SUPER STICKY duct tape that we
had around. This tape is the foil backed with superglue type 'sticking power'. I
just stretched and then taped it down. After that, then it comes time to 'paint'
the resin into the fleece. Like before, make sure to wear gloves, this stuff
doesn't come off easily. Mix your resin/hardener and then just paint it in with
a brush. Use A LOT of resin, the fleece really soaks it up. After that dries
then go and use a mat/resin mix and apply the mat to the inside of the pod. This
is what will really give it its strength.
After the resin hardens in the fleece, its time to apply the
Bondo and sand. Since I didn't use enough resin and the panels were still a
little flimsy, I used Bondo-Glass. Its bondo with fiberglass fibers mixed in.
Once dries its much stronger than regular bondo. So I covered the entire kick in
the Bondo-glass and did so as smoothly as possible. After it dried (which it
dries pretty fast) I began sanding. I used a vibrating sander as it is the best
we had on hand for this type of thing. Sand, sand, and sand. I was using 80grit
to sand with, 60 or 80 is what needs to be used. I then used some filler found
at paint shops to fill the minor imperfections that were still there.
Now its time to put the finishing touches to the pods. I didn't
have any dampening sheets/pads left over so I used some Rubberized undercoat
spray to coat the inside of the pods to help reduce resonance inside the pod. I
also put some polyfill in, even though I have my doubts as to if they help
anything, they sure don't hurt. Now its on to applying the vinyl. This was the
most difficult part for me. Trying to not get any wrinkles and such in it. I
liberally sprayed both the pod and the vinyl with 3M Contact 80 and let it sit
for a little while. I then started to lay the vinyl down. Both times I was
having to constantly fight with the vinyl and glue because it would touch and
stick and I would have to pull it up to get out the wrinkles etc etc. Needless
to say, there are still some wrinkles in mine and one pretty bad screw up on the
passenger kick. If I have time to redo it I will.
That's it! I hope I didn't leave anything vitally important
out...this is far from comprehensive or exhaustive on how to build kick panel
pods, but should be enough to help you get the right idea. I know it took me
searching the web for sites to figure out how to do it.
As far how they sound and such, they sound AWESOME. I have great
mid-bass and midrange. I have them x-over at around 60Hz with 36db/octave
slope. Living with them can be a pain. You have to really WANT these to be able
to put up with them, they take up a good portion of the floor board. If you just
can't get rid of that space, but still want good imaging, then I would say look
into getting Q-Form pre-made pods or just building pods that are closer to the
kicks, but will give up some on the imaging.
