A garden pond is a pleasing addition
to almost any home landscape. Water has a soothing quality, and
a few minutes spent contemplating a garden pond can melt away the
cares of the day. When the weather is hot, just the sight of a small
pond can be refreshing, particularly in regions where water is scarce
to begin with. In addition to the charms of water, garden ponds
provide an opportunity to grow some intriguing and beautiful plants.
Stocked with a few fish, visited by local frogs and birds, a pond
is the hub of a thriving miniature ecosystem, a source of continual
fascination for both children and adults. In this article, we'll describe how
to install and plant a simple garden pond, and introduce a selection
of plants to get your water garden started.
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PLANNING-
Even a small backyard pond involves considerable effort and expense,
and once installed, it is difficult, if not impossible, to move.
Take time to think about how a pond fits into your landscape and
into your family's activities. Talk with established water gardeners
and learn from their experiences. (Inquire about local water-gardening
groups, or ask staff at your local nursery if they know some water
gardeners.)
While you're pondering your design
and use preferences, remember a few practical details. Water plants
are sun lovers-site your pond where they can receive 6 to 8 hours
of sun daily. Don't locate the pond on your property's lowest spot,
where it will catch the runoff and attendant debris of every rainstorm.
Land lower than the pond can receive overflow and water drained
from the pond when cleaning. Avoid areas filled with tree roots,
rocks, or other impediments to digging. Water finds its own level;
a relatively fat spot will save you a lot of grading.
The size and shape of the pond are
determined largely by available space and personal preference. Plants
and fish, however, impose certain requirements for a pond's depth.
Water plants commonly grown in the garden must be planted at specific
depths, ranging from just under the surface to several feet. Many
pond designs incorporate a ledge for shallow-water plants and a
bottom about 2 feet deep to accommodate water lilies and lotus.
For fish, plan an area more than 2 feet deep. In warm climates,
the extra depth provides cool water in summer; in cold climates
it provides a place under the ice for plants and fish to overwinter.
BUILDING A LINED POND-
Modern materials have made pond construction accessible to anyone
with a shovel and a supply of elbow grease. Two kinds of pond liners
are common. Preformed liners of rigid fiberglass are convenient,
but they are expensive and are available only in a limited number
of shapes and sizes. Sheets of thin, flexible plastic (polyvinyl
chloride, called PVC) or butyl rubber (another synthetic material)
offer far more design possibilities at less cost. A flexible liner
isn't difficult to install-a small pond shouldn't take more than
a couple of weekends. Here's how to do it.
- To determine how much liner you'll
need, add twice the pond's maximum depth plus 2 feet (for overlap)
to the pond's maximum length; do the same for the width. Buy a
liner specially made for ponds. Thicker material is more expensive,
but it is also more durable and will last longer- 20-mil PVC (0.020
in. thick) should last about 10 years before ultraviolet radiation
degrades it. PVC that is 32 mils thick will last 15 to 20 years,
and 45-mil butyl rubber even longer.
- Lay out the pond's perimeter on
the site. A formal, geometric shape can be plotted with stakes
and string. (Drive a stake and stretch a string for a radius to
make a circle.) A length of garden hose is useful for making fair
curves on freeform shapes. Establish the shape with the hose,
then mark it on the ground with hydrated lime from a garden center.
- Dig. Ground that is slightly moist
is easiest to dig. Slope the sides of the hole in at least 75°
from vertical. If you have the room, you may want to make part
of the perimeter a gradual shallow slope, which mimics many of
nature's ponds and provides an attractive spot for birds to visit.
Remove rocks, roots, and other debris that might pose a danger
to the liner.
- Level the perimeter of the pond.
Rest a spirit level on a long straight board laid across the hole
to check. Fill low spots with earth removed from the hole. If
you want the cap stones to lie flush with the surrounding soil,
dig a ledge around the perimeter to accommodate their thickness
and that of the builder's sand or mortar in which they rest.
- Spread a layer of builder's sand
about 1/2 inch thick on the bottom and sides of the excava tion.
Layers of newspaper, old sheets, or blan kets placed below or
on top of the sand provide extra insurance against puncture.
- Stretch the liner over the hole,
weighting its edges with just enough bricks or stones to hold
it in place. Now add water from the garden hose. The weight of
the water will gradually sink the liner into the hole. As the
water pushes the liner against the sides, make tucks and pleats
where necessary to help the liner conform smoothly to the contours.
(If your pool is large, you may need to stand in it to smooth
the liner.)
- To accommodate runoff after a
rain, provide an overflow outlet. This can be as simple as a channel
cut at water level through to lower ground nearby, with stones
and pebbles to hold the liner in place and obscure it from sight.
Or it can be buried drain pipe or tile that empties into a rock-flled
dry well.
Edging the pond-
When the pond is full of water, smooth the liner around the perimeter
and trim it to overlap the surrounding soil about 1 foot The simplest
pond edge is made by laying capstones on top of the liner. Extend
the capstones 2 inches or so over the water to hide the liner and
to protect it from ultraviolet light. If you want to walk on the
cap stones, and you live in a mild-winter climate, you can lay the
capstones in several inches of mortar. Those in a cold-winter climate
should consult with a concrete contractor about the advisability
of reinforcing the mortar or digging footings to prevent frost heaving.
An alternative edging suitable for
any climate isavailable. A submerged edge of mortarless stone, brick,
or block helps hold the liner in place while providing firm support
for the capstones and anyone walking on them. To install this edging,
you'll need to cut a ledge deep enough to accept several courses
of fat stones, bricks, or fat concrete pavers (it should be at least
6 in. deep and 1 foot wide). When the water reaches this ledge during
installation, make final adjustments in its height using the water
level as a guide. Resume filling the pond, placing the ledge stones
on the liner, then trim and fold the liner over them. Lay the capstones
in place around the perimeter, adding builder's sand where necessary
to level them.
