PLANTS IN THE POND-
With a bit of experience,
you can make your pond into a self-sustaining miniature ecosystem,
with a balance of plants and aquatic creatures that will keep themselves
healthy and the water clear. When you select water plants, remember
that some, such as irises and pickerel rush, grow vertically above
the water surface. Others, such as water lilies, float on the water
surface, and can take up considerable space. Water plants are no more difficult
to plant than garden plants. To restrain soil and to make the plants
easier to maintain and, if necessary, remove for overwintering,
water plants are usually planted in containers. You can buy plastic
baskets made for the purpose or use regular plant containers or
plastic dishpans (bore some holes for drainage). After filling the
pond, let the water sit for a week or so before adding plants, so
that chlorine in the water can dissipate.
Good garden soil, preferably on the
heavy, clayey side, works well for water plants. Remove undecomposed
organic matter, and don't add organic amendments such as peat and
compost, which break down and cloud the water. Don't use potting
soil or soilless mixes.
- Planting a Water Lily-
Fill a container with about 10 qt. of soil, pressing it firmly
in place. Line open-lattice baskets with burlap to prevent the
soil from floating away.
- Hardy water-lily rhizomes are usually
shipped dormant. Trim damaged roots and place the thick rootstock
horizontally in the soil, the top of the crown and new leaf shoots,
if any, exposed. Hardy water lilies spread in one direction from
the rhizome, much like irises do, so place the rhizome near one
side of the container to allow for subsequent growth. Insert tropical
lily tubers vertically in the center of the container; the soil
should cover the base of the stems but not the crown.
- Spread a layer of pea gravel, 1/2-inch
thick, to keep soil from floating free and to prevent fish from
disturbing the plant roots. The crowns of hardy lilies should
remain exposed.
- Soak the soil with water from the
pool. Lower a hardy lily into the pool until the soil surface
is from 6 to 16 inches under water (no more than 2 feet deep).
Don't put tropical water lilies out until the water in the pool
has stabilized at about 70°F. To lessen the shock of transplanting,
you can lower tropical lilies gradually into the pond, so that
their developing foliage stays on the surface. Stop when the plant
reaches a depth of 6 to 12 inches
Other plants-
Shallow-water plants and bog plants are planted in containers much
the same way as you'd pot up a begonia for the patio. Use heavy
soil, as described above, spreading gravel on the surface to prevent
soil loss. Most of these plants will do well on a shallow ledge
with the soil surface under several inches of water; others may
be planted with the soil surface at or even above the water. Free-floating
plants don't need soil to anchor them. Just toss them in (gently);
some can be anchored in soil if you want to confine them to a certain
spot.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE-
Like any container-grown plant, a water plant needs regular feeding;
timing varies according to the plant and the type of fertilizer.
Special tablets formulated for water plants are easy to apply just
push them into the soil.
Water plants attract certain pests,
and you'll have to decide how much damage you can tolerate before
controls are warranted. If your pool contains fish or other wildlife,
most pesticides are out. You can control aphids on water lilies
(or other plants) by knocking them into the water with a well -directed
spray from the garden hose. Zap caterpillars with the biological
control Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt); encourage birds and beneficial
insects. Good hygiene keeps down pest and disease problems, and
helps keep water clear and inviting. Remove diseased and damaged
plant parts as soon as you see them. Keep water clear of leaves
and other debris.
Within the first several months your
pond is likely to bloom with algae. As the plants mature and shade
more of the water, the bloom should subside. If not, try adding
some oxygenating plants, which compete with algae for nutrients,
or fish, which eat algae. As a last resort, you can try chemical
controls-be sure to find one that won't harm other plants or fish.
Plants hardy for your region can
be overwintered in the pond if it doesn't freeze to the bottom;
the layer of ice serves as insulation. Cut back foliage after a
killing frost and place plants on the pond bottom. Fish can also
overwinter under the ice, but you'll need to maintain an unfrozen
area with a pond deicer to allow gases harmful to the fish to escape.
If the pond might freeze to the bottom, remove the containers and
cut away all growth above the soil. Cover each container with moist
newspaper, enclose it in a plastic bag, and store where temperatures
stay below 40°F.
