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Deciduous trees and shrubs are sold in several ways. "Bare-root"
plants are dormant, with leafless branches and roots bare of any
soil. "Balled-and-burlapped" plants, usually trees, are dug from
a growing feld while dormant, the mass of roots and attached soil
(the "ball") wrapped in some material (formerly burlap, now often
plastic). Trees and shrubs are also grown and sold in plastic or
metal containers, which allow them to retain all their roots. Plants
sold bareroot are planted in late winter or early spring. Balledand-burlapped
and container-grown plants can be planted from spring to fall in
cold-winter areas and from fall to spring where winters are mild.
When you select a tree or shrub at the nursery or garden center,
examine it carefully. Avoid plants with damaged bark or branches.
If the plant is in leaf, moist soil and healthy-looking leaves (not
wilted or discolored) are some indication of ade quate care at the
nursery. Roots growing on top of or out of the bottom of a container
are signs that the plant has been too long in its pot. While most
homeowners can plant small trees and shrubs with little diffculty,
large balled-and burlapped plants pose daunting problems of transportation
and planting. Nurseries selling these large plants will usually
offer planting services or be able to recommend capable professionals.
Preparing the planting hole. Dig the hole large enough to accommodate
the root ball easily. Depth is critical; the tree or shrub should
be planted no deeper than it has been growing. This is easy to determine
on con tainer-grown plants. On balled-andburlapped and bare-root
plants, look for a change of color near the juncture of stem and
roots. Don't dis turb the soil at the bottom of the hole or it will
settle, placing the stem or trunk too deep. When you dig the soil,
place it on a tarp near by and remove rocks and other debris. Recent
research shows that trees and large shrubs do best when planted
in native, unamended soil. Small shrubs placed in beds with perennials
wil do fne in the amended soil. With a rake or garden fork, loosen
the soil on the sides of the hole to encourage root penetration
into surrounding soil. Poor drainage can doom a plant. To check,
f ill the hole with water; if the water is gone within 24 hours,
drainage is fne. If much water remains, consider planting in another,
better-drained spot. Strong winds can damage newly planted trees.
To provide support, drive two sturdy stakes on opposite sides of
the planting hole and a foot or so outside its perimeter. Secure
the trunk of the tree to the stakes with strong twine or wire. (Protect
the trunk from abra sion by threading the wire through a section
of old garden hose.) The fastenings should allow some movement,
so the trunk grows strong enough to withstand the wind. Planting
container-grown tree or shrub. Before planting, soak the container.
When the soil is moist but not soggy, slide off or cut off t he
container. Try to disturb the root ball as little as possible, but
if there are a great many roots visible on the surface of the ball,
gently untangle them. A Carefully place the plant in the hole, spreading
disentangled roots so they don't encircle the ball. Fil the hole
about halfway with te soil you removed, working it in with your
hands to eliminate air pockets. Adjust the trunk of a tree so it
is upright and orient te stems of a shrub as you wish. A Fil the
hole with water; when it has drained, add the remaining soil, tamping
it frmly.
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