BUYING ORGANIC FERTILIZERS-
With so many commercial fertilizers on the market, it can be tricky
to know what to buy. Start by looking on the label for a series
of three numbers (like 5-5-5 or 4-1-1). These three numbers refer
to the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the
product. In most cases, you'll want a balanced or complete fertilizer-one
that has roughly equal amounts of those three nutrients (such as
3-4-3 or 2-3-4). For the most flowers, avoid products with a high
first number (like 8-4-4). This means that the product has lots
of nitrogen, a nutrient that will promote lush, leafy growth but
discourage flowering.
Once you've cleared the site, you're
ready to dig or till. Either way, it's important to work the soil
when it's at the right moisture level. Take a handful of soil and
try to squeeze it into a ball. If the soil won't form a ball, it's
too dry to dig; water the area thoroughly and try again in a few
days. If water drips off your hand when you squeeze the soil, or
if the soil forms a tight ball, it's too wet to dig; wait a few
days to let the soil dry. If the soil forms a ball that breaks apart
easily when you tap it with a finger, it's time to get started.
First, spread 1 to 2 inches of organic
matter (like compost or chopped leaves) over the site. As it breaks
down, the organic matter will release a steady supply of nutrients
for your plants. This is also the time to apply any fertilizers
or amendments that were recommended in your soil test. If you didn't
take a soil test, apply a balanced organic fertilizer according
to the package directions. Dig the organic matter and fertilizer
into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil, rake the area to remove any
rocks and break up soil clumps, and you're ready to plant.
PLANTING YOUR FLOWERS-
If you're starting your flowers from seed, simply scatter the seed
evenly over the planting area. If you're sowing small seed-like
sweet alyssum or poppies-mix the seed with a few teaspoons of dry
sand; the extra bulk will help you scatter the seed more evenly.
Cover with soil to the depth recommended on the packet, or just
press the seed into the soil if the package says to leave it uncovered.
Keep the area moist until the seeds start to sprout, then gradually
decrease watering over the next week or two. Once seedlings are
a few inches high, thin them to the spacing recommended on the seed
packet. Carefully pull or snip off unwanted seedlings, or dig them
up and transplant them to bare patches.
Transplanting flowers growing in plastic
market packs or pots is even easier. If your plants are in market
packs, squeeze the bottom of each "plug"and push the plant out.
If the plant is in a pot, put one hand on the soil at the top of
the pot with the plant stem between two fingers. Then turn the pot
over, supporting the soil with one hand; use your other hand to
pull off the pot. If it won't come off easily, try tapping the pot
with a trowel to loosen it.
Use a trowel or shovel to dig a hole
just as deep as the plant's root ball, and about twice as wide.
Center the plant in the hole, and fill in around the roots with
the soil you removed. Water each plant thoroughly to settle the
soil around the roots and encourage new root growth. Keep the area
evenly moist for at least 2 to 3 weeks to get plants off to a good
start.
MULCHING, WATERING, AND FERTILIZING-
Once you've planted your pot-grown flowers, or your seedlings are
4 to 6 inches high, it's time to mulch. Mulching is perhaps the
most important thing you can do to keep your flowers healthy and
vigorous during the growing season. A 1-inch to 2-inch layer of
organic mulch-like compost, grass clippings, or shredded leaves-helps
to keep the soil from drying out and adds a steady supply of plant
nutrients as it breaks down. Plus, it will virtually eliminate weeding,
since it prevents new weed seeds from sprouting.
A mulch will help to hold existing
water in the soil, but it won't add any during dry spells. If you
don't get any significant rain for a week or two, pull aside the
mulch and feel the soil. If it is moist at the surface, wait a few
days and check again. If you have to dig down 2 or 3 inches to feel
moisture, it's time to water.
The best way to water your flowers
is with a soaker hose or drip irrigation system; this will apply
water right to the roots, where it's needed. Plastic and rubber
soaker hoses are particularly easy to use: Just wind the hose between
plants and leave it in place all season. When you're ready to water,
just attach the end of the soaker hose to a outdoor faucet (or to
a regular garden hose if the flower bed is far from the faucet),
and let the water run until the top 4 to 6 inches of soil are moist.
Watering with a regular hose-end sprayer is not a good practice.
You probably will lose patience before you've applied enough water
to penetrate the mulch and adequately moisten the soil. Plus, this
kind of watering wets plant leaves, encouraging the spread of diseases.
Fertilizing your flowers started back
at the soil preparation stage, when you added organic matter and
perhaps a balanced organic fertilizer. Many flowers will thrive
on this diet and won't need extra nutrients. If you do want to give
your plants a mid-season boost, apply a handful of balanced fertilizer
around the base of each plant and scratch it lightly into the soil.
Or you can treat them to a dose of compost tea. To make compost
tea, take a shovelful of compost and put it in a burlap or cloth
bag to make a "tea bag". Put the bag in a bucket or watering can
full of water and let it sit for a week. Dilute the liquid to the
color of weak tea and sprinkle it over your plants or water them
with it once or twice during the summer.
