Learn Rose Gardening

When you water, water deeply, wetting the entire root zone to a depth of 16 to 18 inch. To find out how much water this would require for your soil, water in your preferred manner (bucket, hose, drip irrigation) until you think you've provided enough. Then dig down to see how far it has actually penetrated; water more if necessary. A hands-on method is also the best way to judge when you need to water. Dig down about 3 in. near the plant; if the soil at that depth is wet, wait; if dry, add the amount of water you determined above.

You can also fertilize according to monitored signs, but many gardeners adhere to a schedule. You may choose an ordinary granular or soluble fertilizer or one specially formulated for roses. Either way, follow recommended dosages on the label-too much fertilizer can cause problems.

Species roses, old roses, and climbers can do with a single application of a complete fertilizer in early spring when buds are about to burst. In rich, organic soil, many thrive with no additional fertilizer. Repeat bloomers can use additional fertilizer after the first bloom is spent.

Modern roses need periodic feeding during the growing season. Fertilize new roses about a month after planting. Start feeding established plants after pruning, when new foliage begins to appear, then every 6 to 8 weeks or every 3 to 5 weeks, depending on your preference and what seems to work best for your plants.

Cold-winter gardeners should stop applying fertilizers containing nitrogen about 6 weeks before first frost; nitrogen encourages growth of tender shoots, which cold could damage. You can continue with phosphorus and potassium to strengthen roots and shoots for winter.

PRUNING ROSES:
Few aspects of rose growing are more daunting to novices than pruning. There are a great many different kinds of roses, and experts may prune each one slightly differently (and disagree with each other about the proper method). The best way to learn to prune is to watch an experienced rosarian prune plants similar to yours. In the limited space available here, we'll outline the basics of rose pruning, which should get you off to a sound start.

• You can do most pruning with a good pair of bypass pruning shears. These work like scissors; anvil shears can crush the canes. Heavy loppers or a small pruning saw is useful for older bushes with thick, woody growth.
• In general, pruning is done to remove dead or unhealthy canes, to promote new growth, and to create a pleasing, healthy shape. Light to moderate pruning can produce good looking garden plants and ample flowers.
• Remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood and weak, spindly canes any time you see them. When removing diseased canes, sterilize the shears by dipping them in alcohol between each cut.
• Damage may extend into wood that looks healthy on the outside; keep cutting until the pith at the center of the cane is white to light green.
• Annual pruning is best done toward the end of the dormant season, when the growth buds are beginning to swell. Note that some once blooming roses produce flowers on the previous year's growth-prune these after they bloom.
• Remove canes that cross the center of the bush to help open the bush to air movement and sun.
• Place your cuts at an outward-facing bud, to promote growth away from the center of the plant.
• Many species and old-garden roses may do fine with no more pruning than the above. For hybrid teas, grandifloras, and foribundas, remove about one-third the length of new growth.
• When cutting flowers for display, sever the stem just above the first leaf with five leaflets.
• Climbers have special training as well as pruning requirements that we can't cover here. Consult a local rosarian for advice.