Growing Herbs at Home

Annual herbs and a few perennials are sometimes sown directly where they are to grow (some plants do best when direct sown). Seed packets are dependable sources of basic information on planting-when, how deep, how long until germination. After preparing the soil as previously described, rake it smooth and sow the seeds evenly on the surface if you're carpeting an area with plants (creeping thyme, for example). Or sow 3 to 5 seeds in a spot where you wish to grow a single plant; you'll thin to the strongest seedling later. Cover the seeds with a fine layer of soil, if recommended on the packet, then water thoroughly. The key to success is to keep the seeds moist until they germinate. A layer of straw or a covering of light horticultural fabric can help conserve moisture.

When the plants are large enough to work with, thin to the recommended spacing and continue to water regularly (do so even for drought-tolerant plants) until growth is well established. For perennial herbs, this extra attention may be needed throughout the first season.

Seed starting in containers-
Direct seeding can be risky. A sudden cold spell, a torrential rain, or hot drying winds can reduce germination or wipe out little plants. Starting seeds in containers and growing them under controlled conditions into robust seedlings avoids these problems. All of the necessary materials can be purchased at a nursery or garden center.

Sow seeds in 4-in. plastic containers filled nearly to the top with moist potting soil. Wet the sown seeds with a household spray bottle and set the pots in a warm part of the house out of direct sunlight. Keep seeds moist by spraying or by enclosing the containers in plastic bags. When the seeds have germinated, place the containers under lights for at least 12 hours a day. Whenever the potting soil dries out, set the containers in a shallow tray fallen with water so the soil absorbs water from the bottom, which encourages deep rooting. (Remember to remove the containers and allow them to drain.) Feed the plants once a week with a soluble fertilizer diluted to one half or one quarter the ordinary rate. Raise the lights as the plants grow to keep the tubes about 2 in. above the top leaves.

After the plants have developed their first true leaves, transplant the seedlings to individual containers. Four- or six-cell plastic packs work well for small plants; use 3-in. or 4-in. pots for plants that quickly grow large. Fill the cells or pots with fresh, moistened potting soil. Holding a seedling gently by a leaf, prick it out of its pot with a sharpened pencil, taking care to disturb its roots and attached soil as little as possible. Poke a hole in the soil of the new cell or container, insert the seedling, and f ill around it to bury the roots. Larger seedlings can be suspended in an empty cell while you add potting soil around the roots. Place the cell packs or individual containers under lights again, water ing and feeding as before.

When the seedlings are large enough to put in the garden (after the last frost for tender plants), they need to be acclimated to conditions outdoors. Begin with a few hours in a spot protected from direct sunlight and wind, increasing to full exposure over several days.

TRANSPLANTING INTO THE GARDEN
The procedure for setting container-grown plants in the garden is the same for plants you've grown from seeds and for those you purchase. Space the plants according to their mature size. Closely spaced perennial herbs will fill in more quickly, but they can become ungainly or unhealthy as mature plants become crowded. A mulch of compost, bark, chips, or grass clippings helps conserve moisture, improves the soil, and keeps weeds down while young plants are small.

Before transplanting, water the container and let it drain until the soil is moist but not soggy. Try to disturb the root ball as little as possible as you slide it from the cell or pot. Gently loosen congested roots on the bottom and lower sides of the root ball; unwrap any that encircle the ball. Place the plant into a hole in the prepared bed slightly larger than the root ball and deep enough to position the top of the root ball at soil level. Fill the hole about halfway with soil, then soak the root ball with water, let it drain, and then add the remaining soil, firming it gently around the stem. Water is crucial for new plants; if nature doesn't oblige, provide 1 in. per week for the growing season-even for drought-tolerant plants. Herbs that are adapted to the conditions of your region and site should, once they're established, require minimal care.