CHOOSING HERBS
In addition to its taste, aroma, flowers, foliage, and form, you
should consider an herb's preferences for growing conditions. Most
herbs thrive in fertile, well-drained soil in a sunny location.
Many tolerate heat and dry conditions; few survive in soggy soil.
Some herbs, such as dill, are annuals, but most are perennials and
must therefore be able to withstand the rigors of seasonal change.
The common measure of this ability is the minimum temperature a
plant can survive. If you want to grow an herb that is too tender
for your winters, plant it in a pot and overwinter it indoors. Plants adapted to the conditions of
your area (soil, temperatures, rainfall, and so on) are more likely
to succeed for you and to require less regular care. Knowledgeable
staff at a nursery or garden center can offer valuable help in identifying
plants well suited for your region and for your purposes.
PREPARING A PLANTING BED
Contrary to popular belief, most herbs, like most other garden plants,
do best in fertile soil whose texture allows roots to penetrate
easily and moisture to drain readily. You can improve even the poorest
of soils simply by adding organic matter when you dig a new bed
or rejuvenate an old one. Common organic soil amendments include
compost, rotted manure, and peat moss. (If you're concerned about
immediate soil fertility, add 1-12 to 2 lb. of 10-10-10 granular
fertilizer per 100 sq. f t. to a new bed.) While organic amendments
wil benefit almost all soils, they may not correct more specific
problems. To learn more about your soil and what it may need, call
your Cooperative Extension agent and ask about soil-testing services
in your area; these are often inexpensive and provide detailed recommendations.
The first step in digging a new bed
is outlining its perimeter. You can tie string to stakes for beds
with straight sides; use a garden hose or make lines with powdered
horticultural lime for undulating shapes. Next, remove existing
vegetation. You can lift turf as you dig, composting it or burying
it upside down at the bottom of the new bed. For large weed-infested
areas, you may want to apply a nonspecific herbicide, which will
kill all plants it touches. If you want to avoid toxic chemicals,
you can smother weeds and turf by spreading a layer of black plastic
over the site for several weeks in the heat of summer.
Two methods of digging a new bed are
common. For most soils and most herbs, "single-digging" to the depth
of a spade (8 to 10 in.) is sufficient, aerating the soil while
allowing you to remove rocks and roots and add several inches of
organic amendments. "Double-digging" goes twice as deep, allowing
the addition of more amendments and the deeper aeration of poorer
soils or poorly drained soils.
Poor drainage is the bane of many
herbs. To test the drainage of your soil, dig a hole about 1 ft.
deep and fill it with water. If all the water is gone 24 hours later,
drainage is fine. If some remains, you can improve matters by adding
organic material to the soil. If most of the water remains, you
may want to consider making raised beds with imported topsoil, or
consult knowledgeable staff at a nursery or your Extension agent
for advice on drainage systems.
