The
right plant for the site-
Because trees and shrubs are long-lived and often expensive, make
sure they are well suited for the conditions on your site. Consider
their preferences for temperature, sunlight, water, and soil. If
you live with sweltering summers, drying winds, high humidity, or
drought, take those conditions into account, too. Trees
and shrubs must be able to withstand the rigors of seasonal change.
The most common measure of this ability is the minimum temperature
a plant can survive. Horticulturists have divided the country into
11 "hardiness zones," based on average minimum temperatures. The
hardiness zone rating is frequently noted on plant labels and in
catalogs.
Given
the large amounts of water required by many trees and shrubs, it
makes sense to select those whose needs correspond to the normal
rainfall in your area. Similarly, it is difficult, if not impossible,
to alter large areas of soil for the extensive root systems of many
trees and shrubs. Homeowners in the Southwest, for example, where
soils are typically alkaline, will avoid disappointment and save
money if they don't try to grow rhododendrons, which are more at
home in acidic soils.
Don't
forget to consider the mature size of the plant. A full-grown Norway
spruce can overwhelm a small lot; junipers that tuck in nicely beneath
a picture window when young can block the view in a few years. Rather
than devote yourself to years of nonstop pruning, choose plants
whose mature size will be in keeping with their place in your landscape.
Well-chosen
trees and shrubs are more likely to succeed for you and to require
less regular care. Knowledgeable staff at a nursery or garden center
can help identify plants that will serve your purposes while doing
well in your conditions.
PLANTING
AND INITIAL CARE
Evergreen
trees and shrubs are commonly sold in several ways. "Balled-and-burlapped"
plants are dug from a growing field while dormant, the mass of roots
and attached soil (the "ball") wrapped in some material (formerly
burlap, now often plastic). Trees and shrubs are also grown and
sold in plastic or metal containers, a method that allows the plant
to retain all its roots. You can plant balled-and burlapped and
container-grown plants from spring to fall in cold-winter areas
and from fall to spring where winters are mild.
When
you select a tree or shrub, examine it carefully. Avoid plants with
damaged bark or branches. Moist soil and healthy-looking leaves
(not wilted, discolored, or easily dislodged) are some indication
of adequate care at the nursery. Roots growing on top of or out
of the bottom of a container are signs that the plant has been too
long in its pot.
While
most homeowners can plant small trees and shrubs with little difficulty,
large balled-and burlapped plants pose daunting problems of transportation
and planting. Nurseries selling these large plants will usually
offer planting services or be able to recommend capable professionals.
Preparing
the planting hole-
1) The hole should be big enough to accommodate the root ball easily.
Depth is critical; the tree or shrub should be planted no deeper
than it has been growing. This is easy to determine on container-grown
plants. On baled-and burlapped plants, look for a change of color
near the juncture of stem and roots. Don't disturb the soil at the
bottom of the hole or it will settle, placing the stem or trunk
too deep.
2)
Dig the soil, and place it on a tarp nearby; remove rocks and other
debris. Recent research shows that trees and large shrubs do best
when planted in native, unamended soil. Small shrubs placed in beds
with perennials will do fine in the amended soil.
3) With a rake or garden fork, loosen the soil on the sides of the
hole to encourage root penetration into surrounding soil. Poor drainage
can doom a plant. To check, fill the hole with water; if the water
is gone within 24 hours, drainage is fine. If much water remains,
consider planting in another, better-drained spot.
4)
Strong winds can damage newly planted trees. To provide support,
drive two sturdy stakes on opposite sides of the planting hole and
a foot or so outside its perimeter. Secure the trunk of the tree
to the stakes with strong twine or wire. (Protect the trunk from
abrasion by threading the wire through a section of old garden hose.)
The fastenings should allow some movement, so the trunk grows strong
enough to withstand the wind.
