Emitters-
Different types of emitters are available with a water flow capacity
ranging from 1/2 gallon to 8 gallons per hour. The type of emitter
chosen will depend upon the size of the plants that are to be irrigated.
Design the system to provide for the water needs of mature plants.
Do not mix emitters. If there are different types of emitters on
the same line, it will be difficult to apply the same amount of
water per plant along that line. Some plants will be over watered
while others may not receive enough water. Emitters
should be kept within easy view so that a plugged emitter is discovered
before any plants have died.
Pressure
Compensating Emitters-
If the main line is laid on a slope, the emitters at the bottom
of the slope will `drip' more water than those at the top of the
slope. The same problem may occur with systems hung from rafters;
emitters at the lowest elevation, or sag, release more water than
emitters at the higher points in the system. Pressure compensating
emitters will eliminate this problem. These emitters can be used
alone or with spaghetti tubing.
IRRIGATING
CONTAINER PLANTS-
A
drip system can be used to water flower and vegetable pots on patios,
balconies and greenhouses, as well as plants in hard-to-reach areas.
Once installed, a drip system can take care of the needs of these
plants in an efficient, trouble-free manner.
To
water hanging baskets, attach the system to the rafters, and run
spaghetti tubes to the individual baskets. A lead weight at the
end of the spaghetti tube or spray-type emitter pushed into the
soil of the container will keep the tube in place. Install the pipe
and tubing in shaded areas; otherwise, the sun-absorbing, black
polyethylene pipe will heat the water and may scald the plants.
IRRIGATING
VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDENS-
A lateral can be buried next to each row of vegetables or laid on
the surface (cover with mulch to keep the pipe cool). Place the
drip emitters or spaghetti tubes no more than 6 inches from the
plant to increase germination. If transplants are used, the emitters
can be placed 12 to 18 inches away from the base of the plant, depending
on the ability of the water to reach the plant.
When
planting double rows of vegetables, such as beans or peas, place
the emitters between the rows.
IRRIGATING
TREES AND SHRUBS-
Drip systems occasionally are used to irrigate trees and shrubs.
However, the root systems of these plants are extensive and a greater
surface area must be wetted by the system. Three or more emitters
should be used for each tree or shrub. Place the emitters 18 inches
away from the base of the plant. The entire circumference surrounding
the tree or shrub should be thoroughly watered. If part of the root
system is not wetted, the leaves and branches supported by the dry
portion of the root system will die. As trees and shrubs grow, their
root systems expand and additional emitters should be installed.
Trees
and shrubs that have developed under sprinkler systems usually have
extensive roots. It is diffcult to convert these plants to a drip
system. In many cases, insufficient coverage of the root system
results in dead leaves and branches. As a general rule, unless the
tree or shrub was irrigated by a drip system from the time it was
planted, it is best not to attempt to convert an established plant
to a drip irrigation system.
irrigation system was found it was a nightmare to irrigate all those fields because where i live is a place
that does not rain so much. Now we use drip irrigation, saving so many water and it is a lot easier to irrigate
the field with that. I am trying to read everything about drip irrigation and i recommend every farmer to use that
technique, so i am grateful for everyone who gives information about it. I also found a very good guide about drip
irrigation and it may be useful too for those who want to learn more information about that;