| |
This is the second part of our 2-part series on making homemade
model rocket engines. Costing almost $2 each, cosys can go up quickly.
These engines cost around 25 cents each.
| WARNING: Not to be rude, but if you decide to follow
this tutorial and make your own engines, I will not be held
responsible for your actions. If you get injured or injure someone
else, it is not my fault. Please, be careful. The materials required to make the
engines are very dangerous, and should only be handled by adults.
Please wear a face covering helmet. |
Be careful,
be careful!!
This can be dangerous!!!!
Packing the Propellant
Because this propellant is slower burning than others, we can't
just pack it into the casing and light it. There has to be a core.
When the core ignites, it causes more of the propellant to burn
than if we just lit the end.
Since the whole core has to be ignited almost instantly, you need
to use gunpowder. How do you get such a thin core of gunpowder in
there? Well you need to pack the propellant around something so
that there is a hollow core in the engine so we can pour the gunpowder
in. To do this, you will need to make a coring mandrel and packing
tamp.
You can make a single coring mandrel, or several of them. I made
6 of them on one board so I could pack the propellant faster. I
used an old 2x4 and I drilled holes partway into the board using
a 3/32" or 5/74" drill bit. Then I cut up pieces of metal hangers
(you can use piano wire, nails, or anything that has a diameter
of 3/32") and pounded them into the holes. Then I cut the tops off
at 1.5" above the wood. Make sure you drill the holes straight and
make sure the wires are straight.
Now get another 1/2" wooden dowel (do not use the wrapping/putty
one) and drill a hole into it about 3/4" or 1" deep with a 7/64"
drill bit. This will allow you to pack the propellant as you pour
it in.
Put the engine on the coring mandrel, with the nozzle at the bottom.
Funnel the propellant into the engine, in small amounts (about a
teaspoon at a time).
Put the tamp in and pound it with a hammer a couple of times. Check
the propellant level. If you can still see the coring mandrel wire,
add more powder. When you can no longer see the wire, you are done
packing the propellant.
Rip off a small piece of kleenex or paper towel and pound that on
top of the propellant.
Now you need to close off the end of the engine so the only way
the gases can escape is through the nozzle. You can use epoxy for
this, and put 1/8" to 1/4" in the end, but epoxy is pretty expensive.
I just use the putty I used for the nozzle. But put at least 1/2"
of it in there and make sure it is packed down against the kleenex
(don't pound on it with the tamp though).
I usually wait for the end plug to dry before I take the engine
off the coring mandrel, but you can probably take it off right away.
Just remember to keep it upright so the putty or epoxy doesn't get
lopsided. Also go slowly when taking it off, because you don't want
the propellant to fill in the hollow core.
Ignition
Since we packed the propellant around the coring mandrel, there
will now be a hollow core in the engine. This core needs to get
ingited all at once, so a fast burning powder must be used. Gunpowder
(or blackpowder, whatever you want to call it) works great. Go to
your sporting goods store and find the finest grained powder you
can find.
Pour the gunpowder into the hollow core until it is full. Then make
a little pile of it on the nozzle. If you want, you can add a tiny
bit of water to it so it will dry in a hard cake, but I just leave
it as powder because you have to put tape over it anyways.
Get a fuse that's a few inches long (get it from a fireworks store,
or wait until I write the tutorial for making fuses) and lay it
on top of the little pile of gunpowder. Get some masking tape and
secure the fuse. If you didn't get your gunpowder wet, you should
completely seal the nozzle with tape so the powder won't fall out.
That's all there is to it! Put the engine in your rocket and see
if it works! Remember that these engines don't have anything to
pop your parachute out, so you will want to use an old rocket probably.
Also watch out when it comes down, because it will be falling very
fast (only launch in a deserted area).
As you can see, I have used this rocket many times (no fins and
electrical tape holding the launch tube on)
<< Part
1
Related Posts:
Related tags:Do it Yourself, Make
a rope net, hammock making |
To make a smoke bomb, you need:
1)Flour----------2 Cups
2)Salt-----------1 tablespoon
3)A paper towel
4)Baking powder--2 teaspoons
5)Water
6)Piece of Plastic Wrap(optional, but nice)
7)Rubber Band
8)Pepper
Mix the flour,salt, and baking powder together in a bowl.
Now, take one paper towel and put it flat on a table.
Put about a teaspoon full of water on it.
Place your mixture of the flour,salt, and baking powder on the wet spot of the napkin.
Pull up the ends of the paper towel and tie it up with the rubber band.
If you have plastic wrap, put it on the top of the grenade shape you now have. This is so the mixture wont spill.
Throw it at someone soon. When it hits them, the small water spot will break and the mixture will blast on them.
If you are real mean, put some pepper in the mixture to blind the person for a minute or so!
STINK BOMBS
To make a stink bomb, you need:
1)An egg(hardboiled)
2)Salt---2 tablespoons
3)Aluminum foil
4)Sunlight
5)Toothpicks(10)
Punch about 10 holes in the egg with the toothpick. Punch the holes in various areas.Once youpunch the holes leave the toothpick in the egg.
Partially cover it up with aluminum foil(like 50% of the egg).
Place it under sunlight for 24 hours(if you want the egg to be real stinky, put it for more hours!).The heat from the aluminum foil wiill reflect to the egg making it real hot.
Remove the foil.
Put salt all over the egg.This will keep it so the outside of the egg won't rott, just the inside will.
Place the egg wherever you want the smell to be. Take the toothpicks out and the stink will be unleashed!!!!!!!
ITCHING POWDER
To make itching powder, you need:
1)Rose
2)Boiling water----1 Cup
3)Knife
4)toothpick
5)Bowl
6)Sunlight
Get a red rose. Put it in a dark,dry area so it will die quicker.
When a rose dies, a small green round fruit-like formation grows in the middle of it.
Once the rose dies, remove this small fruit-like formation.
Take a knife and cut it into two halves.
There will be cotton like stuff in the two halfs.
Take a toothpick and remove this cotton-like stuff(scientifically, it is called cythilicus).Don't touch it with your bare hands.
Place it in a small cup.
Place this small cup next to the boiling water cup so it can absorb the steam of the boiling water and become fluffier. Don't let any water touch the cotton-like stuff.
Don't place it in the microwave or it won't work. It NEEDS to absorbe the STEAM.
Once it becomes fluffy(after 10-15 minutes next to the boiling water cup), place the cup of cythilicus under the sun.
It will turn down to powder. Place it on someone and have fun laughing at them. It even goes through clothes. PS-This is serious stuff. DO NOT put it on anyone's eys or lips or anywhere internal. It is especially uncomfortable under the arm pits. Do not use on anyone you love, just people you really hate.The itching usually lasts up to 1 hour.I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU PLACE IT ON SOMEONES EYES,LIPS, OR INTERNALLY!!!
CRACKING COMBINATION LOCKS
To crack combination locks, you need:
1.)A combination lock
Pull the clasp of the lock.
Still pulling the clasp up, turn the dial right.
It will stop at a number and won't move right anymore.
The number on the right hand side of this number is the first number.
Now pull the clasp again.
Turn left until the dial won't turn left anymore.
Two numbers to the left of the number it stops on is the second number.
Find the middle number between the first and second number.If the first number was 4 and the second number was 8, the middle number would be 6.
Go to the 7th number on the right of this middle number. This is the last number.
Go find some combination locks, open them, and HAVE FUN!!!!
P.S.-This works best on all combination locks made before 1995. The lock companys found out about this effective way to open locks and made the newer locks so this technique doesnt work on them. But don't worry, there is a way around EVERYTHING!!!
take more thread , attach it to chute cords, nose cone and rocket body.
After filling the engine with fuel put 3 to 5 grains 4f black powder on top before sealing it off with a wad of tissue paper.
Tap it down hard to compress it. When the fule burns to the top t.e powder will ignight and send chute and nose cone off and rocket will parachute back down.
net
http://www.cannonfuse.com/
http://www.americanpyrosupply.com/
BE SAFE AND HAVE FUN!
ROD
To Haley- using metal for R-candy-fueled rockets is a no-no. So is anything that would puncture you if it explodes unexpecdedly- No PVC, No slectrital conduit, etc. Paper tubing is the ONLY safe thing to use!!!.
Conner- Your asperations are high, but you wuill not be able to build a rocket that'll burn for 30 sec. w/o a metal nozzle and very advanced techniques. Good luck.
To question- don't be an ass. This fuel is VERY INSENSITIVE to impact. Try going back to playdoh if you feel uncomfortable w/this simple build!
I use homemade gunpowder for my rocket fuel. Dump some of this gunpowder on a piece of paper, then crease the paper a little so that the gunpowder piles up into a ridge several inches long. Next, get some string, dip your index finger in a tiny dip of white glue, pinch the string between the index finger and thumb and smear the glue down the string 3 or 4 inches being sure to wet all sides of the string lightly with glue. Then immediately lay the string in the ridge of gunpowder and fold the paper over so that it dumps powder all around the string. Then press on the string to help embed the powder. For more fuses, skip an inch and repeat the above. Hang up for a few hours to dry.
I'd guess my fuses burn at about 3/4 inch per second (3 inches = 4 seconds). You need to handle this fuse carefully because if you knock off too much powder it may work sporadically.
I use a string with a diameter near the size of the nozzle so that you can just cram it in so that it plugs the hole and helps hold the powder in place.
Dennis