HERB GARDENING
There is something intriguing about the scent of a plant as
you brush by it on your way to somewhere or sometime in your life.
We cherish our memories of Lavender sachets and soaps from a visit
to our grandparents home, or Rosemary Sage and Thyme from that perfect
Thanksgiving with people you love. Herb gardening is more than a
supply of materials for my handmade bath and body products, it is
also a passion. It helps me to stop and smell the roses and the
lavender and the thyme and all the rest. A moment stolen by the
mailbox to see how the Lavender is doing, another moment with the
thyme when calling the kids in for lunch. It's good to stop, take
a moment and notice life.
A person doesn't need a large garden
to have an herb or two to brush by. I have incorporated all of the
herbs that I use into my landscaping. I have Lavender, Old Roses,
Sage, Lemon Balm and Thyme all planted in with my coreopsis, shasta
daisies and delphiniums in my front flower beds. In the back yard,
I have elderflower bushes, sage, mints and Calendula in amongst
the borders of the lawn and more Calendula and Chamomile in the
vegetable garden. Thyme will be planted in time under the apple
trees for a better chance of pollination. Bees love thyme. Rosemary
is potted and prefers to winter in the southern exposure window.
I think that if I were potted, I'd prefer that spot too.
If you don't already grow your own,
I highly reccommend that you start. Remember the tomato, warm and
ripe and juicy picked fresh from the vine you grew it on. Well,
that's the way a fresh cup of chamomile tea tastes when you use
chamomile that you have grown. Instead of a tired old philodenron
as a houseplant, try rosemary, pine-apple sage, thyme or lavender.
Even the old stand bys, chives, parsley or mint need a spot in your
home or garden. Just be careful not to upset a jealous spouse with
your new love!
GOOD OLD BASIC GARDENING TIPS
First year add 6" of good organic matter (compost, grass
clippings, leaves etc.) and work in well. Add 2" a year worked
gently into the top 2 or 3 inches of soil around perennial plants.
Avoid soil compaction at all costs. Try not to walk or drive on
soil around plants.
Use mulches to prevent rain from eroding
and compacting soil further. Mulch is also important in holding
water in the soil.
Water deeply at least 8 to 12" and infrequently to encourage
deep strong root growth. Your plants will winter over and withstand
drought conditions better.
Group plants that like the same growing conditions together so you
can water and care for them the way they want to be cared for.
Know what your site can handle and choose plants that will do well
there. Don't try to force a plant to grow in conditions it doesn't
like.
Always handle roots gently when transplanting, cultivating, weeding
etc.
Insects and disease are attracted
to stressed unhealthy plants so be sure your plants are well adapted
to the site, are getting the water, nutrients and light neccessary
for strong, healthy growth.
If you suspect a disease is present
(i.e. leaf spots, root rot etc.) carefully determine the cause before
treating. Avoid overhead watering and keeping the soil too wet for
long periods. Overhead water can splash disease spores onto more
leaves spreading the problem.
Many insects can be hand-picked or
washed away with a good spray from the hose. Many also respond to
a spray of soapy water. Be careful though as some plants won't tolerate
it well. I like to use about 3 tablespoons of a mild dishwashing
detergent (like Dawn or Ivory) to 1 gallon of water applied in the
evening so it stays wet for a longer period of time. To be on the
safe side I will gently wash the soap off in the morning to lessen
the chance of a reaction. I have used this successfully on lavender
and rosemary with whitefly, and aphids on my roses.
