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Civil War Medical Facts

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Bustled Look 1890's      
1890's Hourglass Figure

The bustled look lasted into the 1890's but by 1893 a more hourglass silhoutte had appeared. Late in the 1880's the sleeves were becoming larger and the skirts becoming wider giving the corseted waist an even slimmer apperance.

The wealthy jumped on this changing fashion easily succombing to the very lavish and richly embroidered fabrics that were seen coming out of Paris. At the same time there was a lot of interest in a more masculine and tailored look in women's fashion. The Gibson Girl is an American classic. The famous skirt and shirtwaist gave even the average working woman a chance to be fashionable and to compete, somewhat, with the wealthier class. Women were becoming increasingly active in sports and in education so this probably had some impact of the movement of the styles.

New to this era was the combination chemise and bloomers making a one piece undergarment. The combination had less fabric around the waist and hips and was one piece of clothing instead of multiple pieces.

Sleeves were the biggest discerning factor seen now. By 1896 sleeves became so large they could not be held up and would flatten on the shoulder. Most needed large underpinnings sewed into them for supporting the sleeve and keep them standing. In 1897 fashion once again went into transition. The fullness of the sleeve moved into the bodice and produce a full chest look that would later turn into the famed "reverse S" shape of the turn of the century.

Umbrella skirt from 1890's Umbrella Skirt

This skirt is cut and sewn in 1 piece. The front is narrow and has darts. the back is pleated and falls in folds to the floor. Comes in 2 train lengths. This skirt can be seen early in the 1890's.

Bell skirt from 1890's Bell Skirt

This is another skirt sold seperately. It is referred to as a "bell skirt" because it is narrow at the top and quite full at the bottom. Skirt is a traditional A line with 5 gores and no darts. The back is pleated and is quite full. There are 2 lengths available, with a train or without.



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