ATTACHING
THE RAILS AND BOARDS:
- The
top rail can be set flush with the top of the posts or dropped
several inches below them, depending on the fence style. Nail
the top rail inside, outside, or within the frame. Toe nailing,
or driving the nails at an angle, is the recommended nailing method.
You can also use galvanized hardware such as fence brackets or
T-plates rather than simply attaching the rails with nails. Support
blocks are also helpful.
- Secure
the middle (if required) and bottom rails in the same way. For
shorter fences, you might want only top and bottom rails.
- If
fencing along sloped terrain, either lay out the fence in steps
or follow the natural con tours of the land. In general, fences
on short, steep slopes look better when stepped; if the fence
follows the slope, it appears to bulge or lean. Longer or gentler
slopes can be followed.
- The
installation of the boards on the frame work is the easiest part.
Do not nail on the boards until the final framework pleases you.
When you are ready to nail on the boards, start at either end
of the fence and set the first one in place. Be sure it is vertical;
use a plumb bob and line to check it.
- Boards
should not overlap the top or bottom rail by more than a few inches;
unsupported boards will warp and cause a ragged-looking edge.
-
For a privacy fence, butt the boards side by side. If they are
not being butted against each other, use a piece of wood the same
width as the boards for spacing. Nail a cleat to the top of the
piece and hang it on the top rail.
-
After the boards are on, cut the tops of the posts to match. If
the top rail is nailed directly on top of the posts, the posts
must be aligned, measured, and cut as the rails are installed.
-
Using string and a line level, establish a cutting guideline from
the corner post to another corner or gate post. The posts, if
not covered by rails, can be topped off with a metal cap to help
protect the wood from rot. The caps slip over the post and are
nailed with aluminum nails. Or you can use decorative post caps.
GATE
CONSTRUCTION:
Gates should be installed as you come to them. Leave about 1/2"
clearance between the post and the gate frame. Also leave about
3" of space at the bottom of the gate so the gate will swing free
and easy. For building purposes, consider the gate and the post
on which it swings as a single unit.
The
gate frame is a rectangle of 2X4s butt joined and screwed or nailed
together. We recommend a diagonal length of 2X4 between the top
of the frame and the bottom of the frame. This diagonal piece helps
stabilize and strengthen the gate. Always attach the lower end of
the diagonal on the hinge side of the gate; reversing it will cause
the gate to sag.
Once
the frame has been assembled, hang the gate using three very strong
strap hinges. The center hinge is centered between the top and bottom
hinge. Make sure the gate swings freely. Then add the boards to
the gate rails to match the spacing and alignment of the boards
on the fence.
FINISHING:
Finish the board fence if you want, with any good exterior house
paint. Use a primer and at least one top coat. Two top coats are
best.
You
may want to prime the infill boards before nailing them in place.
You will, of course, mar the primed surface during assembly. However,
the damage to the primer shouldn't be all that much if you work
carefully. Laying the boards out on sawhorses and coating them-faces,
edges, and ends-with primer assures better coverage than you could
achieve with the boards on the fence.
Once
the boards are in place, you can apply the finish coats of paint
to the fence.
