EXCAVATION:
Building a board fence should follow a plan for best results. You
will find that the job will go smoother.
- Clear
a line that the fence will pass through. At least 1 foot to either
side of the line is sufficient. Any shrubs, bushes, trees, or
stones that are in the line should be moved, or the fence should
be designed to avoid them. You don't have to remove the ground
cover. Make sure that buried power lines will not interfere with
the posts. Your utility company can provide a site plan of buried
lines. Check with them before you start digging.
- Once
the path has been established, you can position the posts. After
you determine the spacing-6' or 8' on center-measure the distances
and stake these points. Continue until you have staked all post
centers. Keep in mind that the dimensions are taken from the center
of each post to the center of the next post. Try to keep the units
in even feet. This will avoid waste. Verify all dimensions twice
before cutting. If you are installing a prefabricated fence, center-to-center
distances may be 4', 6' or 8'. Measure, mark, and stake with care
especially with pre-fab fencing. The spacing sometimes is not
consistent.
- Digging
postholes can be the most difficult part of building any fence.
The digger, which you can rent, can be the auger type or the clamshell
type. Both types are work to operate; the auger type may be a
bit easier than the clamshell. You can rent power post-hole diggers;
you may need a helper to handle this equipment, however. The secret
to a power digger is to hang onto the handles and let it dig.
Don't force it. Let it do the work.
As
each hole is dug, make sure that it is vertical. This is important
when you set the posts. The depth of the posthole depends on the
height of the fence, as detailed earlier. The diameter of the hole
can vary from 10" to 12".
SETTING
THE POSTS:
After driving stakes in line with the post run, stretch a string
down this run. Dig the end posthole first, set the post in this
hole, align and plumb it with the string. If the fill will be earth,
pack the earth taken out for the hole around the post until the
hole is full. Tamp down the earth firmly.
If
you will set the posts in concrete, follow the technique below.
One bag (80 lb.) of concrete mix is usually required per hole. It
yields 2/3 cubic foot.
- Throw
a couple of handfuls of gravel into the bottom of the hole. This
promotes drainage and deters woodrot
- Set
the post in the hole.
- Align
the post and plumb it. Temporarily stake it plumb.
- Fill
the hole about one-third full of cement mix.
- Pour
a 2-gallon bucket of water into the hole over the cement mix.
- With
a length of 1 x 2 scrap, tamp or puddle the water into the cement
mix. It doesn't have to be mixed as you would mix it in a tub
or mixer. Just stir the water into the mix so it is damp.
- Fill
the hole another one-third with cement mix and then pour in the
water and mix as you did before.
- Fill
the hole completely with cement mix, pour in the water, and puddle.
Then trowel the top of the mix so it slopes from the post to the
ground.
This
method is easier than mixing the concrete and placing it in the
hole. Once set, the post is so tight in the hole that it would take
a tractor and chain to remove it from the footing.
All
posts will be set from this corner post. Dig the postholees as you
come to them-don't pre-dig them unless you hire a pro for this job.
If you hire a pro, you must be perfect with your measurements, or
you may be in trouble with aligning and plumbing procedures.
Following
the string and stakes, locate and dig the next posthole. Check all
measurements twice, making sure that the posts are on the centers,
i.e., 8' from the center of one post to the center of the next post.
Dig the hole and set the post. Add the rails to each section (see
details below). Then continue measuring, marking, aligning, plumbing,
and setting the remaining posts.
