Rails-
Rails span the posts horizontally. There are always two rails-sometimes
three if the fence infill is heavy. For picket fences, 2X4 rails
are plenty heavy to handle the weight. There are several methods
to attach rails to posts: metal T-plates, fence brackets, support
blocks, or toenailing. Infill-
Infill is the pickets on a picket fence. Infill on other fences
includes pressure-treated boards, aluminum panels, and exterior-grade
plywood (T1-11 plywood is grooved by design and is a good choice).
Footing-
These are the materials placed under and around posts to support
them. You can set the post directly into the ground and support
it with gravel and earth. Or, you can set the post into the hole
and support the post with concrete. The concrete footing, as you
would suspect, is best in areas prone to extreme frost heave.
Gates-
The maximum width is 48". The gate posts should be larger than the
fence posts to support the movement of the gate. It is recommended
that you use 4X6 posts. Also, the posts for a gate should definitely
be placed in concrete to insure stability. We recommend at least
three gate hinges-top, middle, and bottom- and that the hinges be
extra hefty for support.
EXCAVATION:
- For best results building a picket
fence should follow a plan. You will find that the job will go
faster and easier and that the final product will look great.
Clear a line that the fence will pass through. At least 1' to
either side of the line is sufficient. Any shrubs, bushes, trees,
or stones that are in the line should be moved, or the fence should
be designed to avoid them. You don't have to remove the ground
cover. Make sure that buried power lines will not interfere with
the posts. Your utility company can provide a site plan of buried
lines. Check with them before you start digging.
-
Once the path has been established, you can position the posts.
After you determine the post spacing-6' or 8' on center-measure
the distances and stake these points. Continue until you have
staked all post centers. Keep in mind that the dimensions are
taken from the center of each post to the center of the next post.
Try to keep the units in even feet. This will avoid waste. Verify
all dimensions twice before cutting. If you are installing a prefabricated
fence, center-to center distances may be 4', 6', or 8'. Measure,
mark, and stake with care-especially with prefab fencing. The
spacing sometimes is not consistent.
- Digging
postholes can be the most difficult part of building the picket
fence-or any fence. The digger, which you can rent, can be the
auger type or the clamshell. You can rent power post-hole diggers;
you may need a helper to handle this equipment, however. The secret
to a power digger is to hang onto the handles and let the digger
dig. Don't force it. Let it do the work.
If you have lots of holes to dig, it is recommended that you have
the job done professionally. The cost may not be as prohibitive
as you might first think; get at least three bids and a definite
time schedule. As each hole is dug, make sure that it is vertical.
This is important when you set the posts. The depth of the posthole
depends on the height of the fence, as detailed earlier. The diameter
of the hole can vary from 10" to 12"
SETTING
THE POSTS:
After
driving stakes in line with the post run, stretch a string down
this run. Dig the end post hole first, set the post in this hole,
and align and plumb it with the string. If the fill will be earth,
pack the earth taken out for the hole around the post until the
hole is full. Tamp down the earth firmly.
If
you will set the posts in concrete, follow the technique below.
One bag (80 lb.) of cement mix is usually required per hole. It
yields 2/3 cubic foot.
- Throw
a couple handfuls of gravel into the bottom of the hole.
- Set
the post in the hole.
- Align
the post and plumb it. Temporarily stake it plumb.
- Fill
the hole about one-third full of premixed cement mix.
- Pour
a 2-gallon bucket of water into the hole over the cement mix.
With a length of 1 X 2 scrape, tamp, or puddle the water into
the cement mix. It doesn't have to be mixed as you would mix it
in a tub or mixer. Just stir the water into the mix so it is damp.
- Fill
the hole another one-third with cement mix. Pour in the water
and mix as you did before.
- Fill
the hole completely with cement mix, pour in the water, and puddle.
Then trowel the top of the mix so it slopes from the post to the
ground.
This
method is easier than mixing the cement and placing it in the hole.
Once set, the post is so tight in the hole that it would take a
tractor and chain to remove it from the footing.
All
other posts will be set from this key corner post. Dig the postholes
as you come to them-don't pre-dig them, unless, of course, you hire
a pro for this job. If you hire a pro, you MUST be perfect with
your measurements, otherwise you may be in trouble with aligning
and plumbing procedures.
Following
the string and your stakes, locate and dig the next posthole. Double
check all measurements, making sure that the posts are on the centers,
i.e., 8' from the center of one post to the center of the next post.
Dig the hole and set the post. Add the rails to each section (see
details below). Then continue on with the remaining posts, measuring,
marking, aligning, plumbing, and setting as you go.
