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About Drywall

Rustic Home >Drywall  (part 1)
 
 
Drywalling      
It's known by several names including the names manufacturers give it: Sheetrock, drywall, gypsumboard, gypsumboard wallboard, plasterboard. Sheetrock is a trade name. Most other names are generic and are used according to national region. In this 3-part article, we'll refer to it as "drywall."

Drywall is a replacement for lath and plaster construction. Since plaster utilizes water in its application form, drywall was developed for production-built houses; builders don't have to wait the long periods of time it takes plaster to dry so it can be finished with paint, wallpaper, etc.

Even if the original walls in your home are lath and plaster construction, you can use drywall on new walls (or as patches) for ease of construction and economy. Properly applied, there will be no apparent difference between drywall and plaster surfaces. When walls have been painted or papered, they will be identical in finish texture.

There are three types of drywall products. One type has a standard "paper" wrapper for use in general construction. The other type has a water-resistant wrapper for use in bathrooms and where there is a high humidity problem. The water-resistant product often is called "greenboard" because the wrapper has a greenish cast to it. Greenboard is more expensive (usually) than its standard drywall cousin, although both materials are not generally costly. A third type is fire-rated or fire-resistant, and it will be so noted on its paper covering at the edges. It usually costs a tad more than standard drywall.

Drywall is fairly easy for a do-it-yourselfer to install. The material is heavy, and it is recommended that you have a helper when installing the panels to studs or rafters. Nailing is easy; taping is not so easy, but the job is within the skills of a do-it-yourselfer if you have the proper tools and a little patience.

The most important drywall tool to have is a 6-inch-wide taping knife. We also recommend that you invest in a 9-inch-wide taping knife. These tools can save plenty of time and effort.

Drywall thickness' range from 1/4-inch to 5/8-inch in the three types detailed above. The "standard" thickness is 3/8-inch. The sheets are available 4-feet wide, with the common size 8 feet in length. However, drywall is made in 6-to 14 foot lengths, and some stores may have precut pieces 2x2- and 2x4-feet. A full range of sizes may not be readily available. It is recommended that you check sizes before designing a layout pattern of the sheets.

As a rule of thumb, use 1/2- or 3/8-inch sheets when applying them directly to studs, and 1/4- or 3/8-inch sheets when applying them to an existing wall surface-including plaster.

Nailing plan-
If you have never worked with drywall, it's a good idea to carefully plan out the project before you begin to install the drywall. First, learn what size sheets are available in your area and draw a layout and nailing plan on graph paper. A good plan will save cutting, material waste, and give you the fewest number of joints to tape. For a standard 8-foot ceiling, install the panels horizontally, installing the bottom panel first. The top edge of the bottom panel will help support the top panel while you nail it. Also, this plan will keep joints to a minimum and put them at a good working level for you.

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Comments

Even out the walls
I would recommend building out the wall to reduce the difference. Put plywood behind the drywall to bring it out. A really thick application of mud will be hard to work with.
#6 - D - 08/09/2009 - 19:42
List dry wall size that is fire resistance
Can you please tell me, what size drywall by it self, single sheet is fire resistance.

Thanks
#5 - ian.andrews@usnbgtmo.navy.mil - 03/20/2009 - 15:10
drywalling with oak studs
I have broke several bits (carbon and steel) and the screws also break. any ideals?
#4 - scrowe - 01/11/2009 - 11:40
mrs
we have plaster ceilings in our bathroom coverd by wallpaper(ewwww) can we place green board directly over the top of the wallpaper? what do we use to fasten it to ceiling?
#3 - pneum - 11/02/2008 - 09:12
I have done a fair bit of drywall work. Definitely stick with screws. 12" spacing with 3.5" screws on 5/8 ceilings. And I've only used 3/8 for curves 1/2 is standard everywhere I've worked. 10' and 12' whenever possible, and horizontal sheets on the walls.
#2 - jason - 06/22/2008 - 13:11
Nailing???
Drywall should not be nailed! As the wood studs dry out over time they will cause the nails to pop out. This can be lead to wall \"ghosting\" as a gypsum board panel loosens and protrudes out past other boards. In other cases the nail head could pop out of the wall, requiring you to reset the nail and touch up the wall again. Screwing the gypsum board into place will avoid these problems. Spend the extra minute now and save an hour later.
#1 - A - 05/22/2008 - 07:48
Lath and plaster to drywall

We currently have lath and plaster walls. We are remodeling our kitchen, and we are having difficulty knowing where to stop the demo, as we will be replacing the paster with drywall. Also, do you have any suggestions for getting a smooth surface where the lath and plaster stops and the drywall begins? There is a serious depth difference between the two surfaces.
#0 - dave - 09/09/2007 - 08:26
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