LAYOUT
OF THE FLOOR AREA:
Walls in relationship with floors in most houses are not square,
although some may be close enough to square for tiling purposes.
If
you determine that the room is square enough, snap a chalkline along
the length of the area down the center of the room. Then snap another
chalkline down the width of the room so each line crosses in the
approximate center of the room.
Check the cross with a carpenter's square to make sure it is ABSOLUTELY
square at the center point.
Lay
a row of tiles down both lines to the width and length of the room.
Leave a little spacing for the grout lines and joints.
Carefully
notice the tile spacing. If you see less than one tile width at
the cross rows, move the center tiles either way to adjust this
spacing. What you are doing is laying out the room so you can work
with full or at least half-width tiles to avoid cutting and fitting.
A slight adjustment at the center line may save you lots of time-plus
the cost of extra tiling materials.
Once
you establish this spacing, snap a chalkline at each end and at
the sides of the area to be tiled. You now should have a square
or rectangle that is square at the corners even though the floor
area is not square. The border tiles will have to be cut to f it,
but careful attention to tile spacing will reduce the amount of
necessary cutting to a minimum.
If
the room is really out of square, you will have to establish square
working lines within the room area. The illustration shows how.
The
layout is similar to the one described above. However, you will
have to work "within" an area in the room instead of from wall-to-wall.
Be sure to allow for grout lines, since most floor tile doesn't
come with built-in spacers (as wall tile does). If you will need
a finishing tile that is cut to less than half its size, make an
adjustment. If the grout line for the job is fairly wide, make the
line smaller to add space next to the wall. If the grout line is
fairly narrow, expand it to eliminate cutting tile. If neither of
these options is viable, you will have to move the chalkline over
on one side or the other. Check the layout again, using the tile
lay down technique described above. This takes time, but it is accurate.
Floor
tiles are best centered in the room at a doorway for visual appearance.
Or, you may center them with a prominent window in a room. If the
door opening is a small one, centering is not too critical because
you won't see the pattern. If the doorway is an archway, for example,
center tile in the arch.
LAYING
THE TILE:
There are two basic pattern options in floor tile: a jack-on-jack
pattern, which is the most common, and a running bond pattern. Either
is fairly easy to set, although the jack-on-jack pattern might be
easier if this is the first time you've worked with ceramic floor
tile.
Using
your guidelines, very carefully set the first tile after the adhesive
or dry-set cement has been applied to a small working area.
The
first tile is the key tile to the entire project. Therefore, it
must go down square to the guide lines. Any error you make here
will compound itself as the tiles are laid. Double-check for squareness
and make any adjustments at this time.
The
tiles go straight down into the adhesive. Do not slide them in position.
Just butt the edge of one tile against one that has been set and
drop it into place. Then move it over a tad to form the grout line.
Press the tile straight down at all four corners and in the center
of the tile.
Some
tile is pre-spaced. It has tiny lugs or bumps on the edges that
automatically spaces the tiles for grout. However, most floor tile
does not have this feature. You can buy spacers. If you can't make
your own. Use lattice molding cut into 2-inch lengths with a handsaw.
As you set the tiles, put a spacer between them. When you complete
an area, simply remove the spacers and use them over again.
Border
tile is set last. If you have lots of tile to cut, it is recommended
that you buy or rent a tile cutter. To buy, they are fairly reasonable
in cost. After cutting, smooth tile edges on a brick or concrete
surface by rubbing the rough edges along them.
To
go around obstructions such as vertical trim moldings (door casings),
you can shape the tile with tile nippers. The nippers are like pliers.
The secret is to take small nibbles with the nippers not big bites.
And work slowly.
When
all tiles have been set in an area, clean off all mastic spills
and other debris. Also check the joints between tile. If any adhesive
or mortar has squeezed up into the joints, smooth it down with a
nail point (16d common works good) or the rounded edge of an ice
cream stick. Let the job set about 48 hours while the adhesive hardens.
