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Carpet Installation

Rustic Home >Installing Carpeting (part 1)
 
 
      

There are two types of wall-to-wall carpeting. This article details one type: jute back carpeting which has a fiber backing that may be installed on a pad and secured by tackless strips around the perimeter of the room. Jute back is fairly easy to install; the "key" tools are a stretcher and knee-kicker.

Before ordering carpeting, it is suggested that you lay out the room to be carpeted on graph paper. This way you can mark all obstructions such as doors, alcoves, and obstacles. If you can't carpet the entire room with one piece, you will have to allow for a seam. Position this on the graph. Seams should be placed where traffic flow is light. Also, seams should be away from the primary visual focus in the room. Seams are less visible when they run parallel to light rays and should, therefore, run toward the room's primary source of light-usually a window wall.

Prepare the subfloor before laying padding/carpeting. Nail down loose boards, fix squeaks, replace any damaged boards or a bad subfloor. Remove the shoe (quarterround) from the baseboards.

Several tools needed for carpeting may be rented. They include a knee kicker, power stretcher, seaming iron, and carpet trimmer.

Carpet laying basics follow. Read through the steps before you rent or buy any equipment materials, accessories. You may save money on equipment you already have available.

TACKLESS STRIPS/BARS:
Tackless strips are fastened to the perimeter of the room with the tacks facing the walls. Cut them with heavy-duty shears or a saw and nail them down at a distance from the wall equal to two thirds the thickness of the carpeting.

When you have determined this measurement, use a cardboard or wooden spacer so all strips can be placed evenly. If you are going over ceramic tile, you can use adhesive such as contact or subfloor, although it is recommended that a ceramic tile floor be stripped before laying carpeting over the subflooring below.

Fasten binder bars, standard metal edging, in doorways and other spots where the carpeting ends without a wall. The binder bar in a doorway should be directly under the door when the door is in a closed position.

PADDING:
If the carpeting will have padding installed underneath it, here are the procedures:

  1. Cut the padding so that it covers the entire floor. Butt pieces evenly at any seams. If it has a waffle pattern, the membrane skin covering faces up. Staple the padding down at 6-in. intervals around where you think it might slip. On non-wooden floors, use the adhesive suggested by the store.
  2. After the padding is fastened around the room, trim off the overlap with a sharp utility knife just along the inside of the tackless strip. Leave a 1/8- to 1/4-inch gap between the strip and the pad. If the padding is urethane or rubber, tilt the knife slightly away from the wall to create a beveled edge to prevent the pad from climbing.


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