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MAKING
ROUGH CUTS:
To install carpeting, roll out the carpeting in a large, clean,
dry, and fat area. Measure carefully and allow at least 3 in. overlap
for the perimeter of the room and for any seams. If you have cut-pile
carpeting, cut it from the back. First, notch the ends where the
cut will begin and stop. Then fold the carpeting over and make chalklines
on the back between the notches. Cut along the line taking care
to cut only the backing. If you have loop-pile carpeting, cut it
from the front. Snap a chalkline and cut with a utility knife with
a very sharp blade. SEAMING
DETAILS:
- To
cut a seam, put one piece of carpeting over the other so the overlap
is about 1 inch Use the top piece as a guide to cut the bottom
one.
- The
two pieces butt tightly. Insert a length of hot-melt seaming tape
halfway under one piece of carpeting. Put the adhesive side up
and align the printed center with the edge of the carpet. Heat
the seaming iron to 250 degrees. Many stores have self-stick seaming
tape that doesn't require an iron.
- Hold
back one edge of the carpet and slip the seaming iron under the
edge of the other piece. Hold it on the tape about 30 seconds.
Then slide it slowly along the tape while you press both halves
of the carpet onto the heated adhesive. Make sure the two edges
are butting. If not, pull them together and place a heavy object
on them until they are bonded to the tape. If you're using self-stick
seaming tape, merely press both halves of the carpet down firmly
to the tape to make sure the carpeting bonds securely.
CARPET
STRETCHING:
- Walk
over the carpet to shift it so it lies smoothly. Trim the edge
to overlap the tackless strips by 1 or 2 inches. Make incisions
for corners and cut around grates and other obstacles. Place the
knee kicker about 1 in. from the tackless strip and at a slight
angle to the wall. Bump it with your knee so it moves the carpet
and hooks it on the strip.
-
Experiment with the power stretcher to learn how much "bite" is
needed to grip the carpet and stretch it sufficiently. Pull the
carpet taut with a minimum of force so it doesn't tear.
- A
stretching sequence drawing shows how to e stretch and hook the
carpet onto tackless strips. Follow it as you work to find the
correct placements for the knee kicker and power stretcher (Fig.
10).
Stretching
sequence. Carpeting must be stretched in the sequence shown here.
The circles indicate points of attachment and the arrows indicate
the direction of stretching. Follow the numbered sequence, which
is detailed in the text. If you make a mistake in sequence, don't
fret; just go back and do it over.
You
will use three techniques: "hooking" (with the knee kicker), "stretching"
(with the power stretcher), and "rolling" (pressing the edge of
the carpet by hand and hammer onto the back row of nails on the
strip).
-
Hook corner A.
- Stretch
toward B.
- Roll
edge A-C.
-
Stretch toward C and hook.
- Roll
edge A-C.
- Stretch
toward D and hook.
- Hook
edge C-D.
- Stretch
toward edge B-D and hook.
Check
the carpeting to make sure it is evenly stretched. If it is not,
unhook the carpeting and try stretching it again until you're satisfied
with the fit. FINISHING
THE PROJECT:
- Trim
the carpeting between the wall and the tackless strip. If you
don't have trimmer, use a utility knife. First adjust the trimmer
to the thickness of the carpet. Slice downward into the carpeting
at a 45-degree angle, leveling it out when you reach the floor,
leaving just enough edging to tuck down into the gap between the
strip and the wall. Make cuts in corners and around obstacles
with a utility knife.
- Use
a putty knife, trowel, or screwdriver to push the edge of the
carpeting into the gully between the tackless strip and the wall.
If the carpet edge bunches up and creates an unsightly bulge,
trim it a tad to make it shorter.
- Clamp
the carpet to the binder bars at doorways, etc. Trim the carpet
wit a utility knife so it will ft under the binder bar. Tuck it
under the metal lip. Then, with a block of wood and a hammer,
gently tap the lip down over the carpeting edge so that it holds
firmly.
Related tags:Do it Yourself, |
eg.
I would hook in corner A.
stretch to wards corner D.
hook in along A-D wall with kicker.
stretch straight up the middle between A-D to the middle of the wall B-C
Then I would fan out in both direction with the stretcher to the corners of B-C.
Then I would hook wall along D-C or A-B with a kicker.
The I would finish going all across the room with the stretcher.