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Carpet Installation Guide

Rustic Home >Installing Carpeting (part 2)
 
 
      

MAKING ROUGH CUTS:
To install carpeting, roll out the carpeting in a large, clean, dry, and fat area. Measure carefully and allow at least 3 in. overlap for the perimeter of the room and for any seams. If you have cut-pile carpeting, cut it from the back. First, notch the ends where the cut will begin and stop. Then fold the carpeting over and make chalklines on the back between the notches. Cut along the line taking care to cut only the backing. If you have loop-pile carpeting, cut it from the front. Snap a chalkline and cut with a utility knife with a very sharp blade.

SEAMING DETAILS:

  1. To cut a seam, put one piece of carpeting over the other so the overlap is about 1 inch Use the top piece as a guide to cut the bottom one.
  2. The two pieces butt tightly. Insert a length of hot-melt seaming tape halfway under one piece of carpeting. Put the adhesive side up and align the printed center with the edge of the carpet. Heat the seaming iron to 250 degrees. Many stores have self-stick seaming tape that doesn't require an iron.
  3. Hold back one edge of the carpet and slip the seaming iron under the edge of the other piece. Hold it on the tape about 30 seconds. Then slide it slowly along the tape while you press both halves of the carpet onto the heated adhesive. Make sure the two edges are butting. If not, pull them together and place a heavy object on them until they are bonded to the tape. If you're using self-stick seaming tape, merely press both halves of the carpet down firmly to the tape to make sure the carpeting bonds securely.

CARPET STRETCHING:

  1. Walk over the carpet to shift it so it lies smoothly. Trim the edge to overlap the tackless strips by 1 or 2 inches. Make incisions for corners and cut around grates and other obstacles. Place the knee kicker about 1 in. from the tackless strip and at a slight angle to the wall. Bump it with your knee so it moves the carpet and hooks it on the strip.
  2. Experiment with the power stretcher to learn how much "bite" is needed to grip the carpet and stretch it sufficiently. Pull the carpet taut with a minimum of force so it doesn't tear.
  3. A stretching sequence drawing shows how to e stretch and hook the carpet onto tackless strips. Follow it as you work to find the correct placements for the knee kicker and power stretcher (Fig. 10).

Stretching sequence. Carpeting must be stretched in the sequence shown here. The circles indicate points of attachment and the arrows indicate the direction of stretching. Follow the numbered sequence, which is detailed in the text. If you make a mistake in sequence, don't fret; just go back and do it over.

Carpet Stretching Diagram

You will use three techniques: "hooking" (with the knee kicker), "stretching" (with the power stretcher), and "rolling" (pressing the edge of the carpet by hand and hammer onto the back row of nails on the strip).

  1. Hook corner A.
  2. Stretch toward B.
  3. Roll edge A-C.
  4. Stretch toward C and hook.
  5. Roll edge A-C.
  6. Stretch toward D and hook.
  7. Hook edge C-D.
  8. Stretch toward edge B-D and hook.

Check the carpeting to make sure it is evenly stretched. If it is not, unhook the carpeting and try stretching it again until you're satisfied with the fit.

FINISHING THE PROJECT:

  1. Trim the carpeting between the wall and the tackless strip. If you don't have trimmer, use a utility knife. First adjust the trimmer to the thickness of the carpet. Slice downward into the carpeting at a 45-degree angle, leveling it out when you reach the floor, leaving just enough edging to tuck down into the gap between the strip and the wall. Make cuts in corners and around obstacles with a utility knife.
  2. Use a putty knife, trowel, or screwdriver to push the edge of the carpeting into the gully between the tackless strip and the wall. If the carpet edge bunches up and creates an unsightly bulge, trim it a tad to make it shorter.
  3. Clamp the carpet to the binder bars at doorways, etc. Trim the carpet wit a utility knife so it will ft under the binder bar. Tuck it under the metal lip. Then, with a block of wood and a hammer, gently tap the lip down over the carpeting edge so that it holds firmly.


Comment Script

Comments

Floorcovering technician
I use a different method..
eg.
I would hook in corner A.
stretch to wards corner D.
hook in along A-D wall with kicker.
stretch straight up the middle between A-D to the middle of the wall B-C
Then I would fan out in both direction with the stretcher to the corners of B-C.
Then I would hook wall along D-C or A-B with a kicker.
The I would finish going all across the room with the stretcher.
#1 - James - 10/08/2008 - 01:23
Mismatched Instructions
The corner labels in you list of instructions for stretching do not match the sequence drawing. For instance, there is no \\\"edge A-C\\\" in the drawing.
#0 - wjackson - 09/11/2007 - 17:03
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