REPLACING
AN ELEMENT-
A faulty element can be the cause of no hot water. But before you
replace the element, test it with a continuity tester.
Below are the steps to take.
1)
Turn off the electric power at the main electrical service entrance.
Turn off water supply to the tank.
2) Attach the alligator clip of the tester to one electric terminal
of the element. Then touch the probe of the tester to the other
electrical terminal of the element. The tester should light. If
not, suspect a broken wire or a faulty heating element.
3) Open a nearby hot water faucet to start draining the tank. Then
open the tank's drain valve to dram the remaining water. With the
power and water turned off, remove the bolts holding the thermostat
bracket and the element in the heater. Let the thermostat hang by
the connecting wires. Then replace the old element with a new one
of the same size, setting a brand new gasket in position, replacing
the wires, and replacing the bracket and bolts. Be sure to repack
the insulation around the thermostat and replace the access door.
4)
Turn on the water and fill the water heater tank. When the tank
is full of water, turn on the power. Do not turn on the power until
the tank has been filled with water.
A
SHORT CIRCUIT?
No hot water could indicate a short circuit in the heater instead
of a malfunctioning element. Test it this way:
1)
Turn off the power of the water heater at the main electrical service
entrance.
2) Remove the access door and the insulation around the thermostats.
3) Fasten the alligator clip of a continuity tester to one terminal
of the element. Touch the probe of the tester to a bolt holding
the bracket/element in position. If the tester light goes on, there
is a short circuit and the element usually must be replaced.
A
short could be caused by a loose wire in the element coming in contact
with metal. If water leakage is the problem a fuse/breaker can blow/snap
and the water in the heater will overheat causing the high-temperature
cutoff to come on. Most likely you will have to replace the heater.
Now the hot water heating element went \"bad\". Is it because the new cold water tank has a diaphram and the water leve is not high enought to cover the heating element?
The heater element, when they go bad, they go to an "open", yes? New out of the box they should read "closed loop" on your VOM?
Thanks,
Old & Kickin'