HOW
TO REPLACE THE HEATER-
This job sounds tougher than it really is. The hot water is completely
self-contained meaning that once you have hooked it up you are done,
just add water.
Try
to purchase the same capacity water heater as before, unless you
need greater capacity. The newer heaters are more compact than the
older models.
Always
follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations for installation.
Turn
off the water at the main shutoff valve first, then the shutoff
valve to the water heater, if you have one.
2) Turn off the gas at the supply entrance to the tank. If there
is no shut-of valve, turn of the gas at the meter or call your local
gas company to shut it of for you. NOTE: Check that the gas
is off by checking that the pilot light is out, listening and smelling
for gas, and by doing the soapy water test. (See "The Smell
Of Gas" section).
3) With the gas off, disconnect the gas line to the heater. You
can add a local gas shutoff if one is not already in place.
4) Drain the water from the tank by hooking a garden hose to the
drain valve and draining it outside or into a floor drain. Open
some faucets so that water in the lines drain, too.
5) Disconnect the water lines with an adjustable wrench, pipe wrench
or slip joint pliers. If the pipes are galvanized steel without
a union, cut the pipe and remove it from the heater and the next
threaded fitting. NOTE: Use two wrenches in opposing action
when disconnecting from copper pipe to prevent twisting soldered
fittings off the pipe.
6) Disconnect the flue and remove the old heater. Clean the area
and place a drain pan/insulation pad where the new heater will go.
7) Replace the old heater with the new one. Get someone to help
because they are heavy. 8) Install the relief valve, drain pipe
(if desired), and other fittings onto the heater as per the manufacturer's
instructions. Use Teflon tape on plastic or copper and joint compound
on galvanized pipe to make a good seal. NOTE: It is possible
to add some items to the heater before installing, such as the relief
valve, nipples, etc.
9) Connect the water pipes with flexible supply lines. Use a threaded
nipple extending from the heater and another at the water line.
If the distance is too great, add a length of pipe to reach. Add
a shutoff valve to the cold water line at this time if one does
not already exist.
NOTE:
Always use dielectric unions or couplers built into the supply lines
to prevent electrolysis. Failure to do so can cause you to lose
your warranty and will make the tank rust out from the inside in
months, rather than years.
10) Connect the gas with a flexible supply line to the gas pipe.
Test the seal by turning on the gas slowly and brushing soapy water
around the joints. There should be no bubbles. (See "The Smell
Of Gas" section.) NOTE: If you cannot get a good seal,
call your gas company or plumber to assist.
11) Reattach the flue and turn on the main water valve and check
for leaks. When the tank is full, light the pilot and set the temperature
between 110 and 140 degrees. NOTE: Attach the flue as per written
specs and local codes.
12) Secure the heater with earthquake straps (California) or other
required tie downs. Drain several gallons from the tank initially
and continue to drain several gallons periodically to remove sediment.
Insulate both the heater and pipes to stop condensation and keep
your heating costs low.
