When
cutting moldings, keep in mind that the router bit spins clockwise
with a lot of torque pulling it in this direction. That's why a
guide is important. The secret is to let the router ring ride the
guide and let the guide do the steering. You just hang onto the
router handles. If you
are cutting freehand, push the router into the work away from your
body instead of pulling the router toward you. You will have more
control this way.
CAUTION:
Routers have lots of power. Router bits are extremely sharp. Keep
your hands away from the bottom ring of the router; just hang onto
the handles and let the router do the work. When you change router
bits, always disconnect the router from the power source. Be sure
that the router bit is tightly seated in the chuck of the router
before you start work. And be sure that router bits are super sharp.
MAKING
DEEP CUTS:
When the project calls for a deep cut in material that is too deep
for a guide attachment, you can make one easily from a length of
straight wood stock. The key word here is straight so you may have
to hunt through the piles of Select boards to find a straight piece.
Or, if you have a power table saw, you can cut a straightedge for
this reason: if the router jumps the edge of the metal, trouble
could result. Wood will "absorb" the mis-cut.
Clamp
the material to be shaped to a workbench or table top. Then clamp
the straightedge to the material. Measure the distance from the
straightedge to the inside edge of the cut. Measure twice, cut once.
If the
material you are shaping is the good stuff, pad the clamps with
thin pieces of scrap wood to protect the material. The scrap wood,
slightly larger than the clamping surfaces, also helps distribute
pressure from the clamps, holding the material tighter to the table.
SHAPING
ANGLED CUTS:
If you have lots of straightedge and angled cuts to make, this homemade
jig can save you plenty of time. It's easy to fabricate from Select
stock; a wing nut and washer combination lets you angle it.
