| |
Fastening
two pieces of wood together at an angle is a precision job that
becomes easier and more accurate to do when you know a couple of
tricks of the trade. Miter cuts for picture frames, molding and
trim, and furniture joinery are quick to learn. You must have a
good miter box and backsaw to make the cuts-or use power saws with
fine-tooth blades and mitering "attachments" such as a miter gauge
which is "standard equipment" on a power table saw. SIMPLE
MITERS:
A miter can be any degree of angle, although 45- and 90-degree cuts
are the most common. The most
simple cut, requiring just a saw, is to lap two pieces of wood (molding
or trim) at right angles. Then cut through both pieces at an approximate
45-degree angle. The cut will fit perfectly when the scrap wood
is removed. This type of cut works best with thin molding or trim
as you would use to cover the edges of plywood on a bookcase or
cabinet. In a
miter box, the cut is still simple, but you have to measure the
wood to be cut for size. It is recommended that you practice the
cut several times before going onto finish work. Here are the steps:
- If
you own an adjustable miter box, set the saw guide to the angle
at which you want to cut the wood. If you have a simple wooden
miter box, you may be limited to just 45- and 90-degree cuts,
although you can notch the sides of the miter box with a saw kerf
at any angle that you want.
- Use
a piece of scrap wood along the bottom of the miter box to accept
the saw and keep it from damaging the box.
Set the piece of molding that will mate to an adjoining surface
firmly in the box and then cut off an inch or two. You do this
to get a clean, finished end.
Take the piece of wood (you may have to cut it into smaller pieces
to facilitate working with it) and set it in position on the surface
(such as a wall for door or window casing) at the point that you
want to make the miter cut. Mark this point and mark the shape
of the adjoining molding face onto the molding. What you are doing
is "pre-drawing" the shape of the cut on the molding. Now, position
the molding in the miter box so that when you make the final cut
the saw will just follow and obliterate the drawn guideline as
the saw meets the edge of the molding.
If you must cut the miter a little long, you can then trim it
with a saw, block plane, or even medium-grit sandpaper on a sanding
block so it fits perfectly. If you have the option, it is better
to cut the molding long than too short. If the molding is cut
short, you have to start the measuring, marking, and cutting procedure
all over again.
- Cut
the mating pieces the same way. When all the pieces are cut, ft
them together and nail them un place. Or glue and nail them together.
A good tool for this is a brad driver. When the brads are driven
flush, set them below the wood surface (countersink) with a nail
set. Then fill the holes with wood putty, and finish the wood
with paint or stain.
A
shortcut to cutting miters on door and window casing is this:
- Measure
and mark the first piece of vertical molding from the floor (or
opening) to the top jamb. Make this miter cut and lightly tack
the molding into position along the opening.
- Measure
and mark the horizontal piece of trim that goes across the top
of the opening. Cut this miter and mate it with the miter on the
vertical piece. Then measure and mark for the opposite miter cut
and cut the miter. Lightly tack this piece in position so it is
butted tightly against the miter on the vertical trim.
- Measure
and mark the opposite horizontal trim piece and cut the miter.
Now mate this miter into the horizontal miter. Leave this piece
a tad long at the bottom in the event that you have to recut it
or trim it to fit. Lightly tack it into position and mark any
trim cuts. Make these cuts.
- The
miters should fit perfectly. If so, final nail on the trim pieces.
If not, make any adjustments with a block plan or sandpaper.
What
you are doing in this procedure is "going" around the opening on
a "piece-by-piece" trim basis. You will get a better fit by doing
this than by pre-cutting each miter and then trying to fit the pieces
together. The first two cuts-vertical and horizontal-will always
fit perfectly. The third miter cut to mate horizontal with vertical
trim is where the problem starts.
Related Posts:
Related tags:Do it Yourself, |
This was a very good, easy to understand explanation. I can save almost a thousand dollars on my flooring if I can do the quarter-round myself. That is an offer I can't refuse.
Thanks so much for the help. As a single woman I'm becoming pretty good at home maintenance...with good help like yours!
Thanks