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Simple Miters

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Fastening two pieces of wood together at an angle is a precision job that becomes easier and more accurate to do when you know a couple of tricks of the trade. Miter cuts for picture frames, molding and trim, and furniture joinery are quick to learn. You must have a good miter box and backsaw to make the cuts-or use power saws with fine-tooth blades and mitering "attachments" such as a miter gauge which is "standard equipment" on a power table saw.

SIMPLE MITERS:
A miter can be any degree of angle, although 45- and 90-degree cuts are the most common.

The most simple cut, requiring just a saw, is to lap two pieces of wood (molding or trim) at right angles. Then cut through both pieces at an approximate 45-degree angle. The cut will fit perfectly when the scrap wood is removed. This type of cut works best with thin molding or trim as you would use to cover the edges of plywood on a bookcase or cabinet.

In a miter box, the cut is still simple, but you have to measure the wood to be cut for size. It is recommended that you practice the cut several times before going onto finish work. Here are the steps:

  1. If you own an adjustable miter box, set the saw guide to the angle at which you want to cut the wood. If you have a simple wooden miter box, you may be limited to just 45- and 90-degree cuts, although you can notch the sides of the miter box with a saw kerf at any angle that you want.
  2. Use a piece of scrap wood along the bottom of the miter box to accept the saw and keep it from damaging the box.
    Set the piece of molding that will mate to an adjoining surface firmly in the box and then cut off an inch or two. You do this to get a clean, finished end.
    Take the piece of wood (you may have to cut it into smaller pieces to facilitate working with it) and set it in position on the surface (such as a wall for door or window casing) at the point that you want to make the miter cut. Mark this point and mark the shape of the adjoining molding face onto the molding. What you are doing is "pre-drawing" the shape of the cut on the molding. Now, position the molding in the miter box so that when you make the final cut the saw will just follow and obliterate the drawn guideline as the saw meets the edge of the molding.
    If you must cut the miter a little long, you can then trim it with a saw, block plane, or even medium-grit sandpaper on a sanding block so it fits perfectly. If you have the option, it is better to cut the molding long than too short. If the molding is cut short, you have to start the measuring, marking, and cutting procedure all over again.
  3. Cut the mating pieces the same way. When all the pieces are cut, ft them together and nail them un place. Or glue and nail them together. A good tool for this is a brad driver. When the brads are driven flush, set them below the wood surface (countersink) with a nail set. Then fill the holes with wood putty, and finish the wood with paint or stain.

A shortcut to cutting miters on door and window casing is this:

  1. Measure and mark the first piece of vertical molding from the floor (or opening) to the top jamb. Make this miter cut and lightly tack the molding into position along the opening.
  2. Measure and mark the horizontal piece of trim that goes across the top of the opening. Cut this miter and mate it with the miter on the vertical piece. Then measure and mark for the opposite miter cut and cut the miter. Lightly tack this piece in position so it is butted tightly against the miter on the vertical trim.
  3. Measure and mark the opposite horizontal trim piece and cut the miter. Now mate this miter into the horizontal miter. Leave this piece a tad long at the bottom in the event that you have to recut it or trim it to fit. Lightly tack it into position and mark any trim cuts. Make these cuts.
  4. The miters should fit perfectly. If so, final nail on the trim pieces. If not, make any adjustments with a block plan or sandpaper.

What you are doing in this procedure is "going" around the opening on a "piece-by-piece" trim basis. You will get a better fit by doing this than by pre-cutting each miter and then trying to fit the pieces together. The first two cuts-vertical and horizontal-will always fit perfectly. The third miter cut to mate horizontal with vertical trim is where the problem starts.

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Comments

brilliant explanation
how to cut a simple miter at 45 degree angle can be trickie?thanks
#3 - pa - 01/25/2009 - 09:47
wonderful explanation
;-)
This was a very good, easy to understand explanation. I can save almost a thousand dollars on my flooring if I can do the quarter-round myself. That is an offer I can't refuse.
Thanks so much for the help. As a single woman I'm becoming pretty good at home maintenance...with good help like yours!
#2 - figgypie - 08/02/2008 - 13:34
Plywood mitered edge
How do i cut the edge of a 2 and a half feet wide plywood at a 45 degree angle? plan to make a box
#1 - woodYallen - 07/16/2008 - 10:15
Hi having problem in measuring the base board .....if it is 73.3/4" where do u put the pc on the laser line
Thanks
#0 - greg anderson - 01/14/2008 - 15:37
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