HOW
TO MAKE A MITER BOX:
If you have lots of miters to cut, it is recommended that you buy
a miter box that has a metal adjustable saw guide. This is a very
accurate piece of equipment. If you are really into cutting miters,
you might want to consider a miter power saw (chop saw) which is
similar to a radial arm saw but not as costly. Professional trim
carpenters and cabinetmakers use this type of power equipment. If
you cut miters only occasionally, you may want to invest in a plain
wooden miter box, which is not costly. Or, you may opt to make your
own miter box, detailed here. Use 3/4-in.
thick hardwood boards (maple is a good choice) for the miter box.
The length and width of the box are optional, and you may size the
box to fit the type of work you intend on doing.
The minimum
inside width should be 4 ins.; mini mum length is 16 inches. The
height of the sides above the bottom of the box can't be more than
the width of the backsaw blade measured from the bottom of the teeth
to the steel spine. Note that one side of the box extends about
1 in. below the bottom, so that the box may be gripped in a vise
or braced against the edge of a workbench or sawhorse.
Assemble
the box with glue and wood screws. Use a combination square to mark
the 90-degree line and two 45-degree lines (one in each direction)
across the top edges of the wood. Then scribe these lines down the
sides of the box. The 45- and 90-degree angles are the most common
cuts made in a miter box. However, you can cut any angle by simply
marking that angle on the box. With a backsaw, carefully cut along
the lines down the sides to the base. Easy does it. The saw will
tend to wander off the lines (you have two to watch on each side
of the box) as you cut down to the bottom or base of the box. The
initial cuts must be perfectly accurate, since all other cuts made
in the box will follow the same angles.
MITERED
RETURNS:
Moldings for ceilings and chair rails often require "returns," which
involve miter cuts. Since these moldings are patterned (not fat),
the moldings have to be cut "standing vertical" in the miter box,
i.e., you don't lay the mold. To make this cut:
- Set
the molding vertically in the miter box, after you have measured
and marked it for the cut.
- Make
the cut at 45-degrees so the cut is toward the back of the molding.
- On
a second piece of molding , make the miter cut in exactly the
opposite cutting direction as the first piece, running the saw
from the back to the face of the molding.
- Now,
make a 90-degree cut on the molding where the miter cuts meet
the back. You now will have a 45- and 90-degree wedge.
- Use
carpenter's glue to fasten the wedge to the first mitered piece
of molding that you cut. You can add strength to this joint by
nailing it, but be sure to drill pilot holes for the nails to
prevent splitting the wedge or molding. Let the adhesive set several
hours before you drill and nail the molding on.
